Having written a couple of posts about Austrian food, we now need something to wash it all down with. So, what better way to start than by introducing Austria’s most important Grüner Veltliner wine.
In my sister company, Venture Vienna, I operate wine tours to some of Austria’s key wine producing regions and top wineries, so I’ve accumulated a whole lot of knowledge through laboriously sampling many Austrian white wines 😉
This post is therefore a deep dive into Austria’s signature grape, covering where Grüner Veltliner grows, its main characteristics, suitable food pairings and where to buy Grüner Veltliner wines in the US, UK, and Europe. But first, as is customary here at The Travel Tortoise, let’s engage in a little bit of silliness…
GRÜNER VELTLINER WINE
Grüner Veltliner on Tinder...
Hi, I'm Grüner Veltliner, but you can call me Grüner. I'm caucasian, and I'm from Austria. If I had to describe some of my key character traits, then I guess I'd say that I have a dry sense of humour, but I guarantee that I'll always make your mouth water 😉 When I was younger, exes would often describe me as a bit "fruity" and perhaps a little "green", but always "refreshing". Now that I'm a little older and mature, I've definitely become more self-assured and bold. My ideal match? Well, just read on to find out more...
What is Grüner Veltliner?
What Kind of 'Terroir' Does Grüner Veltliner Need?
‘Terroir‘ is basically the growing conditions that a vine has around it. This term encompasses the soil in which the vines grow, elevation, orientation to the sun, and the general weather patterns which dominate in that area.
Grüner Veltliner is thought to be indigenous to Austria, so, no surprise, it grows best in the relatively flat parts of north eastern Austria. Opulent and rich GVs flourish along the Danube valley loess belt stretching east of Krems, while it is also planted on primary rock in regions including the Wachau, to produce a leaner, meaner, more mineralic style.
Loess, by the way, is a deep soil composed of tiny wind-blown silt and clay particles which accumulate over many years. Loess retains water relatively well.
Where Does Gruner Veltliner Wine Grow Best?
Niederösterreich (that’s Lower Austria to you and I) is the spiritual home of Grüner Veltliner, and in the relatively flat north east of Austria it has DAC status (Districtus Austriae Controllatus – equivalent to a protected designation of origin or PDO) in several wine regions, including the Wachau, the Kremstal, the Kamptal (all river valleys), Wagram, and the rather modestly named Weinviertel (which literally translates to the ‘Wine Quarter’).
Aside from Austria, it can also be found in small quantities in the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Italy and Australia. I’m sure that several wineries are experimenting with Grüner in other parts of the world too, as its reputation is growing rapidly.
GRUNER VELTLINER CHARACTERISTICS & FLAVOUR PROFILE
The typical characteristics of Gruner Veltliner do vary depending on what style of wine has been made, although there are a few constants which may help you to decide if it is a wine that interests you…
Younger Bottles
When harvested early and still young, Grüner Veltliner is bursting with acidity, with notes of green apples, lemon, lime, celery and a spiciness most akin to white pepper or radish. These aromatic, fresh and fruity wines are best drunk early i.e straight after its release up to about 2 years.
These bottles will typically be lighter in alcohol and thus relatively easy to drink. Very young GVs are often mixed with fizzy water to make Austrian white wine spritzers.
Older Bottles
When harvested later, and looked after carefully down in the cellar, well aged bottles of Grüner Veltliner become rich and powerful, which makes it a good match for most of Austria’s typically hearty dishes.
These late harvested grapes not only result in higher alcohol wines, but they typically have a more complex flavour profile, often due to being stored for longer in oak, stainless steel, and the bottle itself.
The high acidity of GV means that it ages well, as over time its interaction and eventual balance with tannin and sugar produces very interesting flavours, often evolving into pineapples and cream.
I’d go as far as to say that some older GV’s have a distinct baroque feel to them. Yes, I know, describing a wine using the word baroque goes against all my instincts, but once you’ve tried a high quality aged Gruner Veltliner wine hopefully you’ll know what I mean, as to me, it has almost a regal, imperial note to it!
GRUNER VELTLINER FOOD PAIRINGS
Gruner Veltliner food pairings needn’t be too complicated, just think along the lines of fragrant, spicy, vegetarian or porky dishes:
- Austrian cuisine – no great surprise here really. Austrians eat the most meat per capita in the whole of the EU, and yes, it’s mostly pork dishes like Schnitzel, Pork Stelze, Kümmelbraten (pork belly). Rather cleverly, the wine they produce has evolved to complement this over the years.
- Asian cuisine: (fragrant Thai & spicy Indian).
- Grilled or roasted vegetables: green beans, asparagus, brussel sprouts, courgettes.
- Seafood (grilled fish and shrimp, crab, lobster, scallops).
- Summer salads with vinaigrette dressings (don’t be scared of bitter greenery with GV i.e. kale, rocket).
Three dishes to try with Grüner Veltliner wine…
- Roasted pork belly with dumplings and sauerkraut.
- Grilled asparagus.
- Thai green curry.
WHERE TO BUY GRUNER VELTLINER WINE ONLINE?
USA
If you’re looking some fine examples of Gruner Veltliner wine in America, then check out the Organic Wine Exchange, as they have a small but complete selection of curated bottles from only the most characteristic Austrian regions, including the Kamptaland the Weinviertal in Niederösterreich.
UK
In the UK, I recommend checking out The Great Wine Co, who feature several high quality examples of Austrian Grüner Veltliner from two of the best regions, i.e. the Wachau Valley (including both Federspiel and Smaragd classifications) and the Weinviertal in Lower Austria.
Ireland & the EU
In Ireland and the rest of Europe (also the UK), definitely check out 8 Wines, as they have an unbelievable collection of Grüner Veltliner that rivals that of any other wine merchant out there! Prices are particularly good value too, as almost all GV production occurs within the EU, so taxes and customs are low to non-existent when getting these bottles to your door!
WHERE TO TASTE GRUNER VELTLINER IN AUSTRIA
Oh, how funny that you ask! It just so happens that through my sister company, Venture Vienna, I operate some pretty awesome wine tours in Austria, one of which takes you to the gorgeous Wachau Valley, which, as mentioned, is widely considered one of the finest Grüner Veltliner regions in the world. So if you’re ever in Austria, then do check out my Wachau Valley Kayak Tour, or just get in touch and we’ll create something bespoke together.
If you prefer to do it yourself in Austria though, then just hire a car and head out to the Danube River valleys yourself, visiting Domaine Wachau just outside the gorgeous hamlet of Dürnstein.
In their large tasting room there are informative wall displays and lots of cheery staff who impart their knowledge about what it is you are drinking and where it came from. Domaine Wachau act as a cooperative for many of the valley’s weekend growers, who typically possess tiny plots that have passed down through the generations. As such, they’re keeping alive the tradition of wine making for these families, so kudos to them.
GRUNER VELTLINER WINE: OUTRO
I hope that my rough guide to Gruner Veltliner wine has given you a better understanding of what makes it the undisputed boss of Austrian white wines. From what it tastes like, where it comes from, what to pair it with, and where you can drink some very fine examples of it, you’re now fully equipped to go forth and buy yourself some Grüner – you won’t be sorry.
And if you fancy learning about Riesling next, then go ahead, and don’t worry – it’s actually REALLY good and nothing like what you may have had before…as can be said for almost all Austrian white wines these days! If you reckon you’re more of a red wine fan, then go ahead and learn the basics of Cabernet Sauvignon instead.
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