Last year I visited Lisbon in December. I was looking for a European city break with decent weather for that time of year. I was blown away by the Portuguese capital, and I totally understand why it is so popular. While I was there though, the vast majority of the voices I heard on the streets were not Portuguese, yet I was in visiting Lisbon in winter. I had the distinct impression that peak tourist season in summer must be brutal, with the triumvirate of heat, hills, and crowds combining to create a sweaty, crowded mess. Lisbon in winter is significantly quieter, so you’ll avoid the crowds, the stifling heat, and you’ll save money on hotels in Lisbon old town, and on whichever winter tours you decide to take. Visiting in the off-season may also help to minimize the social issues that its popularity among tourists and digital nomads has created. So sit back, grab a Pastel de Nata, and read all about the benefits of being in the Portuguese capital in winter…
Visiting lisbon in winter is probably better for the locals
Before, during and after my trip to Lisbon, I came to understand the narrative that Lisbon has become a victim of its own success. This is a city of 3 million people, and A LOT of international tourists fly in each year for short stays, mostly between May and October. Summer is peak season across most of Europe though, and this is by no means unique to the Portuguese capital. However, many digital nomads now also call Lisbon home. These recent immigrants, like its tourists, are attracted by low prices, great weather, and wonderful culture, lifestyle, and food. This is all very well for Dave from London, Hank from the US and Steffi from Germany who all earn above the newly introduced digital nomad visa limit of €3,280 per month. But, Portugal is one of Europe’s poorest countries and most locals earn far less than that. They’ve seen prices rising way beyond their means and they’re getting p@ssed off with property rentals also skyrocketing. Considering its decent year-round weather & blue skies, there’s no reason not to visit Lisbon in winter or fall instead. Not only are there far less other tourists to contend with (the irony of this sentence is not lost on me, as I continue writing this guide to visiting Lisbon), but it takes the pressure off over-saturated municipal services and jaded locals, which arguably then gives you a more intimate, open and welcoming experience of its people and their culture. Anyway, that’s my theory and I’m sticking to it.
what are the advantages of visiting lisbon in December/winter?
Lisbon has so many unique things to do, a rich history, great food, wonderful architecture, and a lovely natural setting, that it is worth visiting in all seasons. However, visiting Lisbon in winter conveys significant benefits compared with being there in the summer months. I was in Lisbon in December, and my accommodation was cheap, tours were running (but with far more personal attention), getting around town on public transport was a pleasure, and we could walk into restaurants without needing to book a single one of them. Meandering my way through old town Lisbon and popular spots including Alfama, was a pleasure, and I was able to appreciate the origins and spirit of these neighbourhoods to a far greater extent than if I was sharing those narrow streets with many more like me. As a result, I have no doubt that the best time to visit Lisbon is between October and March. Here’s why…
1. accommodation is cheaper and easier to find
Securing a room in one of the best hotels in Lisbon old town isn’t easy, due to high demand and low availability. Visiting in winter or fall increases your chances significantly, and it saves you money. Pretty much everywhere in Europe is cheaper in the off-season, but this is especially the case here, where competition for budget hotel rooms, hostel places and holiday rentals from April to October is huge. The same goes for restaurants, events and local tickets too, albeit to a lesser extent. The possible savings you can make by visiting in the off-season are vast, so that should certainly be enough to entice the tighter, er..I mean, ‘more budget conscious’ travelers among us. Here’s a rundown of some of the best hotels in Lisbon old town and city center to choose from. It’s worth noting here that your traditional idea of how much budget, mid-range and luxury hotels in Lisbon cost will likely require some adjustment, as off-season prices are so reasonable!
Hotels in Lisbon Old Town
When compared with other European cities, Lisbon is blessed to have comparatively low-priced accommodation options at all price points, in all seasons. However, accommodation in winter is significantly cheaper than peak tourist season. Based on my research and experience, hotel prices in the winter season seem to be around 1/3 cheaper. Here’s a selection of especially sustainable hostels and hotels in Lisbon old town and city center…
Check out either Lisbon Destination Hostel located inside the recently refurbished Rossio Railway station in the heart of Lisbon, Home Lisbon Hostel where you can enjoy home-cooked sociable meals from the owner’s mother herself, or Lisboa Central Hostel on Avenida Liberdades. Dorm and private rooms available.
Those of you looking for cheap accommodation in Lisbon are truly in for a treat, as there are so many high quality hotel rooms sold at great value scattered throughout the city center. I stayed in the HF Fenix Garden Hotel right on Marquis de Pombal Square at the top of Avenida de Liberdades. The cost for 3 nights in a double room overlooking Edward VII Park in December was just €219 or (€73 per night). This was actually cheaper than a private room in most hostels and the room was excellent, with a comfortable bed and great views.
A truly sustainable mid-range option to consider would be the Inspira Liberdade Boutique Hotel, located on the Avenida de Liberdades. This hotel is all about sustainability – they’ve invested in solar panels, use only eco-friendly and organic products, and they do regular city clean ups in partnership with Lisbon’s Botanical Garden. Respect.
Check out Dare Lisbon House located next to Chiado metro station, Hotel da Baixa in the heart of Baixa, or Corpo Santo Lisbon Historical Hotel about a 2 minute walk from Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square).
2. Winter tours in lisbon are less crowded & more authentic
Lisbon Sunset Cruise
Taking a sunset boat tour in Lisbon on the second shortest day of the year in December was a bit of risk I admit, but the weather was 15 and sunny and it seemed like a totally reasonable thing to do. It was definitely the right decision as we were the only people who joined, so effectively we had a private tour. I was really impressed with the company for not cancelling due to their minimum number not having been met, so big respect to Palma Yachts. Not only did we have the boat all to ourselves, but we had the company of two Portuguese crew, Luis and Tomas, and we were served sparkling wine and several glasses of Vinho Verde throughout the two-hour cruise around the Tagus estuary. All things considered, value for money wise, this was unbeatable.
Where does the Lisbon Sunset Cruise start?
As we were doing this sunset boat tour on the second shortest day of the year, it started 3:30pm and ran til about half past five. The tour on the Tagus River started at Belem docks, pretty much opposite the famous Fábrica de Pastéis de Belém & the Jerónimos Monastery. (both can lay equal claim to being where the famous Pastel de Nata egg tarts originated). We were met by our skipper and crew right next to the Monument of the Discoveries or ‘Padrão dos Descobrimentos’. Because of all these big hitting attractions in Belém, there are regular buses and trams arriving from downtown Lisbon, taking around 25 minutes each way.
The Lisbon Sunset Cruise Itinerary
The outward journey took us upstream back towards Lisbon’s city center. En-route we enjoyed great views of the 25th of April Bridge and the Cristo Rei statue (Christ The Redeemer’s mini me). The boat crew were attentive throughout, giving us plenty of information when we wanted it, but also being sensitive to our wish to chill out up front and enjoy the views when we wanted some privacy. They’d periodically check on us and offer wine top ups as well as little nuggets of insight as we sailed past various sites and monuments.
We turned around just after reaching Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square) and then headed back to our starting point in Belem with the low winter sun shining directly into our faces (bring sunglasses). At this time of year, the river was almost empty, and while it did get a bit chilly on-board, that was only because I decided not to bring a jumper, so sensible people would be just fine, I’m sure. The views were great and the vibe was summery, but what really made the experience so special was feeling like we had the entire Tagus river to ourselves. For the money we paid for our tickets, I couldn’t believe our luck.
There’s no way this kind of isolation and personal attention would be possible in summer, so yeah, it was very cool to have had such an intimate experience with the city. All in all, a wonderful sunset boat cruise with a very professional company and two wonderful crew, who guided us perfectly and helped to make this sunny afternoon in Lisbon really unique. If you want to book it, then just go ahead as the whole experience was such a great way to see many of the main maritime sites of Lisbon.
3. getting around Old Town Lisbon & alfama is easier
Alfama, an integral part of old town Lisbon, is one of its most visited and historic neighbourhoods. Dating back to the Moorish period, it survived the earthquake of 1755, which destroyed much of the city. As a result, Alfama still retains its medieval layout and charm. It is a district with a strong sense of traditional Portuguese culture, known for its narrow streets, small squares, and traditional Portuguese houses with colourful tiled facades (azulejos). Many buildings have a Moorish influence, with whitewashed walls and red-tiled roofs, and the winding streets create a maze-like atmosphere. A once poor area, home to sailors and dockworkers, Alfama is also considered the birthplace of Fado, a genre of music characterized by its melancholic and soulful tunes. With open windows and hanging washing, its streets are often filled with traditional music, the smell of local cuisine, and the lively chatter of both locals and tourists alike. Old town Lisbon gets very busy in peak tourist season, so any romantic notion of getting lost in Alfama is likely to be spoiled by bicycle tuk tuks with booming music and six backpackers hanging out the back of it, so if I haven’t convinced you yet, visit Lisbon in Winter!
Lisbon Tram 28
In Lisbon’s peak tourist season tourists will queue long periods to ride the 28 tram which zig-zags its way up to Alfama from the city center. If you’re not a fan of personal space, but you do enjoy standing up for long periods, and the diverse range of human body odours and breath on offer, then do go ahead – Lisbon’s tram 28 is waiting for you! If on the other hand, you choose to visit Lisbon in Winter or Autumn then the 28 tram ride is in fact perfectly pleasant and relatively uncrowded, although also unremarkable in terms of views and overall experience. The ride itself should be viewed as a means of getting people to and from Alfama and beyond (as was certainly intended by the Portuguese transport authorities), and not as an activity in and of itself. Anyway, I recommend walking to Alfama from the centre (or taking the tram if your calves are already done), and then getting yourself well and truly lost. Choose any narrow street which looks to take you deeper into the abyss and find somewhere to sit, eat, people watch, or just wander around aimlessly for a few hours with eyes and ears open. With photogenic alleys and views everywhere you turn, you can’t help but imagine a life lived in Lisbon’s old town.
Aside from its inherent uniqueness, Alfama is popular because it is home to two of Lisbon’s most visited landmarks, i.e the São Jorge Castle, and the Se Cathedral – Lisbon’s oldest church. But, even these are significantly less crowded to visit during the winter months. However, if you are neither religiously or castley inclined (I use the word inclined deliberately here) these can be swerved to instead focus on local contemporary life in Alfama. And for those of you wondering, I didn’t even have to sharpen my elbows to take this great photo from one of the more popular Miradouros in Alfama – in winter you can access this and other favourite photo spots across Lisbon’s old town easily.
4. other reasons to visit Lisbon in December
Christmas in Lisbon
Portugal clearly loves Christmas, and as a country it does it really well. This was evident by the many Christmas markets, decorations and lights lining the streets, buildings and national monuments. From strolling down Lisbon’s exclusive 1.5km Avenida de Liberdade with its gorgeous Christmas lights, to visiting the Christmas markets in Rossio and Edward VII Park, the general atmosphere in Lisbon in December was one of excitement and anticipation. This should be no surprise really, considering that Portugal is a deeply religious country with a rich modern history rooted in Christian folklore, and an estimated 85% of its population identifying as Roman Catholic.
5. using public transport
Lisbon’s public transport network is much less crowded between November and March. This means you have more space and are more likely to get a seat, and the local you’re probably traveling with is likely more accommodating of you and your suitcase. Further to that, some of Lisbon’s older trams don’t have air conditioning, so if you decide to hop on to give your legs a break from all the hills, then it’s going to be a much more comfortable journey when the temperatures aren’t hovering around the mid-30s.
If you’re fit/naive/crazy enough to want to ride a bike around when visiting Lisbon, then first of all, big respect! Secondly, if the hills haven’t put you off, then high summer temperatures probably won’t either. However, if you can find a relatively flat route to get from A to B, then doing so in winter or fall provides several key advantages, including 1) fewer vehicles on the roads to get hit by; 2) fewer saline rivers of sweat flowing directly into your eyes.
visiting lisbon in december/winter: the verdict...
Lisbon is so cool and I know it’s great to visit in summer too, despite the heat, crowds and over-inflated prices. Lisbon in winter though, offers the same activities, restaurants and accommodation options but with far less competition for them. This means you spend less, while also getting a more personalised, patient and intimate experience with the local people. You get to wander its districts and neighbourhoods in relative calm, and delve into its amazing food scene without having your Bacalhau Bras interrupted by someone asking to you to take a picture of them scoffing a Pastel de Nata.
Leave a reply