When planning a trip to Sicily, Taormina often tops the list of must-visit destinations. Known for its stunning views of the Ionian Sea, its ancient Greek theatre, and picturesque streets, it has long been a magnet for tourists seeking out out ‘la dolce vita’ in Sicily. But is Taormina really worth visiting?
If you’re on the fence about adding it to your itinerary, my travel guide is designed to help you decide, with sections on how to get there, hotels in town, the local food and wine scene, things to do, and day trips from Taormina. So dust off your gelato, and let’sa-go, Mario…
Hype vs. Reality
Taormina has earned a reputation as one of the jewels of Sicily, not least after having received the full glossy HBO treatment in the popular TV series, White Lotus. To some extent Taormina absolutely lives up to this hype. The town’s main highlight is undoubtedly its dramatic location perched on a cliff overlooking turquoise waters, with Mount Etna perfectly framed behind it in the distance. It screams “LOOK AT ME!” and if it was human, its Instagram selfie count would be in the thousands. If you’re all about stunning vistas, Taormina will certainly not disappoint.
My visit though, left me with mixed feelings. While its location was undeniably beautiful, I’m not sure that I ever got a true sense of the place. I visited in April, well before the onset of the peak summer season, but even then the town had a bit of a soulless feel to it.
I’m certainly not one to reject a place just because it’s popular, but any well-oiled tourist machine also needs a significant dose of daily local life to keep things real. I’m just not sure that I found that in Taormina. Good looks tire quickly without substance and authenticity.
My favourite part of Taormina in fact, was leaving it to visit the Mt Etna region to meet local wine makers and sample some magnificent volcanic wines. If you do one thing here, I urge you to make it a wine tour from Taormina to explore Mt Etna’s wineries, but more on that below.
If you visit Taormina during peak season certainly be prepared for crowded streets, full restaurants, and higher prices. Yet I didn’t really have to deal with any of that as I visited in spring. Anyway, as I sit here scratching my head, let’s dive into what this place is all about…
GETTING THERE
How to get from Palermo to Taormina
I flew into Palermo and then rented a car at Palermo airport, which from there was by far the quickest and easiest way of reaching Taormina. Driving from Palermo to Taormina took around three hours, and while on Google Maps it looked like a potentially picturesque coast road that I’d be following most of the way, it wasn’t really. The views were fleeting at best, so on the way back I took the inland route through interior Sicily, and this was more interesting.
From Palermo, you can also get a cheap train to Taormina, with a stop in Messina en route. These trains take anything between 4-6 hours – check out Trainline for further details.
The best you can do on a bus is from Palermo to Catania (approx 3 hrs), and then to take a second local bus from Catania to Taormina. Check out Flixbus for the first leg if this works for you, and then read below for the second leg.
How to get from Catania to Taormina
Catania is much closer to Taormina than Palermo, and from Catania airport you can get a local bus to Taormina in less than 90 minutes. Book tickets with Omio, as they have by far the largest number of departures to match with your arrival time. Bus tickets cost around 7 EUR per journey.
Car rental from Catania airport
Of course, you could also rent a car from Catania airport if you don’t fancy roughing it on a train or bus, and let’s face it, if you’re planning a visit to Taormina then you probably aren’t the type who roughs it anyway.
WHERE TO STAY IN TAORMINA
When considering whether or not Taormina is worth visiting, many people will be convinced immediately by the spectacular views afforded by most of its hotels, perched on a hilltop overlooking the med. Everybody loves a sea view so it’s no surprise that accommodation in Taormina can get a little pricey (to say the least). While that may not bother some of its more well-heeled visitors, here are my suggestions of where to stay in Taormina for different budgets nonetheless…
Budget B&Bs and hotels in Taormina
B&B Casa Andrea is a cheaper bed and breakfast option, with a panoramic terrace, and just a few minutes walk from the Greek theater. You also get to meet and chat with a genuine local host, Andrea, so if you’re looking for more of a connection, this could be the place for you.
For something super quaint about 15 minutes on foot from the center, check out Villa Sara, with its huge terrace overlooking town.
Alternatively, there’s also Bed and Breakfast Sorriso, which is located just one street back from Corso Umberto, right in the heart of it. What made tis place stand out to me was its rave reviews, which frequently mention generous local hospitality guests received.
Mid-range hotels in Taormina
I stayed at Villa Astoria, about a 10 minute walk to the start of Corso Umberto. The location was great, and the view from the hotel room was spectacular, as you can see. The room itself was pretty basic, but it did have everything we needed. Certainly not luxurious, but equally, it was clean, and did its job. I opted for a sea view room of course, which is compulsory if you’re visiting Taormina.
Mixed reviews on the hotel staff: The guy running the breakfast service wasn’t the most friendly, and seemed rather jaded even though it was only April, while reception were brighter and more attentive.
Other great mid-range hotels in Taormina include Hotel Bel Soggiorno, which is located in a large garden full of citrus trees in a slightly more residential part of town. As such, it exudes a calm tranquility for its guests. On site parking for those who hired a car too.
For those who want to be right in the town center, Hotel Taodomus is a highly rated mid-range hotel along Corso Umberto which also serves a buffet style breakfast on a terrace overlooking Mount Etna and the Mediterranean.
Also consider Hotel Casa Adele, as well as the slightly more modern Le Moresche Taura and Mina apartment, with its private garden, cooking facilities and on-site parking.
Finally, there’s also Maison Blanche Taormina, set a little outside of the center, whose hospitality is particularly revered by previous guests.
Luxury and/or 5* hotels in Taormina
Arguably the most luxurious hotel in all of Taormina is the San Domenico Palace. With two separate wings, one restored from a 15th century convent. Expect breath-taking views, marble bathrooms, several pools, a gym, bar, gorgeous inner courtyard, and exceptional service.
Opposite the Greek theater you’ll find the equally plush Grand Hotel Timeo, along with its Michellin starred restaurant, sauna, Turkish bath, and gym.
And for something altogether more colonial, and with its own tea room, then do try the Ashbee Hotel, dear!
WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN TAORMINA TOWN
Teatro Antico di Taormina (Ancient Theatre)
Those Greeks certainly knew how to set the stage, huh? With arguably one of the most breathtaking backdrops you’ll find on this planet, this ancient Greek theatre is one of the most iconic landmarks in Taormina. The 3rd century BC ruins are remarkably well-preserved, and the location set against the backdrop of the sea and Mount Etna is truly spectacular. And the best part is that it remains an active venue for concerts and festivals today.
Check out the website of Taormina Friends Club, as they have details of all the events taking place here across the year. If opera is your thing, then also consider this local opera performance at the nearby Nazarena Theater, which includes arias and duets from composers like Verdi, Puccini, and Mozart.
Corso Umberto
Corso Umberto is Taormina’s undeniably pretty main street, lined with shops, cafes, and boutiques. It’s a lovely spot for an evening stroll, but it does get busy, which inevitably takes a little away from its charm. Full of souvenir shops and stylish stores, most of Corso Umberto is catered specifically to tourists and high-end shoppers. I have little interest in handbags and designer names, but the ambience was pleasant. Perfect for an after-dinner stroll, many of the town’s hotels and restaurants are located here.
Piazza IX Aprile
This bustling square half way down Corso Umberto, is the heart of Taormina and offers an excellent spot to relax, people-watch, and take in the sweeping views of the coastline. If you’re visiting in the evening, try to grab a seat at one of the cafes (easier said than done) and enjoy the sunset.
Isola Bella
Is it worth it? Yes, for beach lovers who don’t mind pebbles. A quick 10-minute cable car ride down to the coast, Isola Bella is a tiny island just off the coast of Taormina that you can walk to at low tide. Often called the “Pearl of the Ionian Sea,” its beach is pebbly, but the clear waters make it an good spot for snorkeling and swimming. However, much like the rest of Taormina, it can get very crowded in peak season despite its status as a nature reserve, so try to visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
Villa Comunale
Is it worth it? Yes, as it serves as an antidote to the crowded streets of Taormina when you need a break. Villa Comunale is a lovely, serene spot. Originally designed by English woman, Lady Florence Trevelyan, it’s filled with lush greenery, exotic plants, and Victorian-style pavilions. Strolling along its pathways you’ll find benches to sit and appreciate the panoramic views of the coast and Mount Etna. A great place to escape Corso Umberto and the 1% that shop there for a few minutes of peace and quiet.
THE FOOD SCENE
Far be it for an Italian to exaggerate about the quality of their own food, but before visiting Taormina I’d spoken with many, and they all told me that Sicilian cooking is among the world’s finest. Excitedly and studiously, I began researching where to eat in Taormina, but I was left somewhat confused about what to expect after having read mixed reviews of so many different restaurants in town.
Either my Italian acquaintances had once again gotten a little over-excited (bless ’em) and the food just wasn’t that great in Sicily, or perhaps Taormina’s visitors had higher standards due to the generally higher price of dining out in this exclusive hilltop town?
After all this pontificating, I was bloody hungry, so I headed out to the highly rated Osteria Da Rita Dal 1991 on my first night in Taormina. I had a very disappointing seafood pasta dish, which was sweet, lacking in flavour, and the busiate style pasta was far too ‘al dente’ for my tastes. Overall, it reminded me of something I cooked for myself back in my early student years, when I had no idea what I was doing.
It wasn’t just that the bruschetta was burnt and ripped up my mouth, nor that my girlfriend was equally unimpressed with her dish, it was more that the in-restaurant experience bore no similarity to the glowing reviews I’d read.
Maybe this isn’t Taormina’s fault though. After all, how are we to be genuinely surprised by the quality of a meal somewhere after comparing and contrasting its Google, Trip Advisor, and Yelp reviews before deeming it worthy of our patronage? Food just tastes better without expectations*.
*The irony of me banging on about this while continuing to write this judgement piece on Taormina is not lost on me, by the way.
Where TO eat in Taormina!
Over the course of the next couple of days, though, I did find a couple of great places to eat in Taormina. On the personal recommendation (ah, the good old days) of some Dutch tourists that I toured Mt Etna with, I tried the family run Trattoria de Nino, and it was marvelous. Their truffle and shrimp tagliatelle was the most luxurious truffle dish I’ve ever eaten, and their veal in lemon sauce was equally impressive. The place doesn’t look much from the outside (or from the inside for that matter), but don’t judge this book by its cover, as you’d be missing out.
Earlier in the day we’d also made up for the burnt Bruschetta from the night before, with a literal smorgasbord of the stuff just off Corso Umberto, at a place called Arco Rosso. Both places went a long way in making up for the underwhelming dining experience from the first night, and I do rather wish that I had visited them first.
Of course, my visit to Taormina was relatively short, and everyone can have a bad day at the office, but if you’re a foodie looking for authentic Sicilian dishes (and you can’t afford Michellin starred restaurants), it might be worth moving further away from Corso Umberto and the other main tourist streets. You may even consider short trips to neighboring towns like Giardini Naxos for better value dining.
DAY TRIPS FROM TAORMINA
If you’re on the fence about spending more than a couple of days in Taormina, consider using it as a base to explore other parts of eastern Sicily. One of the main reasons why people head out to this part of the world is to visit one of the world’s most active volcanoes, the imperious Mount Etna. When in Rome, as they say…
Mount Etna Day Trip from Taormina
The imposing silhouette of Mount Etna looms large over the region, and visiting this active volcano is absolutely worth it for the unique landscapes that you’ll see up there. Whether you want to hike up its slopes, take a guided tour, or even ride a cable car, there are plenty of ways to explore this natural wonder.
I took this small-group guided tour from Taormina. We were picked up in town, and then rode a minivan for about an hour to get kitted out with hiking boots, a warm jacket, and a helmet for a little bit of caving which we’d be doing later in the afternoon. This was April, and as soon as we reached the drop-off point to begin our mini hike up the volcano, the temperature sank, and the snow began to pepper us as we walked.
To me, this made the morning hike super refreshing and authentic as snow in Sicily was not what I was expecting. I know that one or two people in our group weren’t quite prepared for the drop in temperature and seemed somewhat relieved when we finished and returned to warmer temperatures. Just be aware that even if you opt for a shorter hike which only explores the outer ranges of the volcano, you’ll be at altitude, so the weather becomes unpredictable and chilly that high up.
Our hiking guide took a route through the old lava flows that meant we saw nobody else on the volcano, which added to uniquely barren feel of this environment. Seeing how the old lava flows have shaved off large portions of the nearby landscape as they oozed down towards lower ground was equal parts fascinating and eery. This is a deathly environment that is constantly evolving and reinventing itself.
After the 2 hour hike we returned to the local winery where we had earlier picked up our boots and hiking gear from, to enjoy a wonderful tasting menu style Italian lunch, and a wine tasting. The Etna wines were fantastic, while the food complimented them perfectly. There were a few other groups doing similar day tours as us, but this didn’t detract from the overall experience – it just highlighted how sought after this kind of experience in eastern Sicily is.
After lunch, we learned a little more from our guide about the geology and rock formations that comprise these volcanic landscapes, as he took us into a couple of shallow local caves to get up close and personal. After that we visited the Alcantara gorge, which was pretty cool, although I’m not sure it was cool enough to warrant the hundreds of other tourists present.
We were then dropped back into Taormina at around 5:30pm. All in all, it was a thoroughly enjoyable day, with a little bit of exercise, and plenty of nature, wine and good Italian food to appreciate.
The Contrade dell’Etna Wine Festival
Alongside (mini) hiking Mount Etna, I had also wanted to visit one or two of the local Etna wineries, to go deep into the local wine making tradition in Sicily. I identified one particular winery and called them to arrange. Zumbo Vini winery, run by two sisters, Erica and Ramona, is located on the northern slopes of Etna, an area known to have some of the best terroir (growing conditions) in all of Sicily.
I was told that a visit to their winery wouldn’t be possible, due to one of Sicily’s most prestigious wine festivals taking place that same weekend. Instead, they encouraged me to come along and meet up with them in person at the festival. I’m all for following local recommendations, so I jumped in my little hire car (the missus was driving) and set out to find the Contrade dell’Etna festival. After a 30 minute drive inland, we found it among the grounds of a lovely Sicilian golf club, Il Picciolo Etna Golf Resort & Spa.
On entry I paid 35 EUR for a day ticket. The stalls were set up like any food and drinks market, with each individual local producer chatting away with interested winos while pouring them generous samples. There were also several food stands serving up hungry winos local specialties, such as the famed Sicilian street food snack, Arancini, which by the way, is perfect for such an event as the dense rice really helps to soak up that booze.
The Zumbo sisters and their team, by the way, were very welcoming and gracious with their time (and pours) once I’d found them inside the event. And over the course of the day, I learnt a lot about Mt Etna wines, and the tradition of wine making in eastern Sicily on all sides of the famous volcano. The golf club that was hosting the event even had a couple of their pros give out free golf lessons down on the range, so of course I also got involved with that to work on my swing in between pours!
If you find yourself in Sicily in early spring, check out the festival website to see if it’s on while you’re in town. It’s totally worth your time if you have any passing interest in Sicilian wines or local culture.
Options for Mt Etna Wine Tours
If you’re visiting Mt Etna at other times during the year, then check out Winedering for the biggest selection of Italian wine tasting experiences around Mount Etna and Taormina. This how I had initially found the Zumbo sisters, and I have also partnered with them to market my own wine tours back in Austria.
For a wine experience booking agent, their portfolio of wine tours, wine tastings and winery visits is unparalleled, especially in their home country of Italy. Even if you just use their website as directory to find out who offers local tastings in Sicily, it is totally worth your time, as they list several different experiences all around Mt Etna and its prominent wine villages like Castiglione di Sicilia.
OTHER THINGS TO DO IN TAORMINA
Cooking classes
Something that Italy (usually) excels at is its food. for aspiring home-cooks, in Taormina there is of course a strong focus on Sicilian cuisine, which includes a Cannolo cooking class for those with a sweet tooth, an Arancino making class in a lively local town center restaurant, and a Taormina market tour, cooking class and wine tasting on this 5* rated half-day experience.
For those of you looking for a broader learning experience, I recommend the latter, as this covers several dishes, and you’ll be sampling local wines alongside the meal you prepare. If you cannot spare the 6 hours, and would prefer a similar, albeit slightly shorter experience then check out this Sicilian market tour and cooking class instead, as it runs for 3.5 hours, starting at 10am most mornings.
Boat trips
I’m a huge nature lover, and this part of the world is blessed with local dolphins, so if you have an interest in marine wildlife watching, then definitely consider going on this 2.5 hour sunset dolphin spotting tour, which includes prosecco and nibbles, some interesting tidbits about the local coastline, and a stop for snorkeling and a swim.
4pm and 6:30pm departure times in summer, and then expect the schedule to change as the days get shorter. There are limited spots on the boat so book up early. Fans of the Netflix show ‘ The White Lotus’ will also get to see several of the series’ most iconic filming locations too.
SO, IS TAORMINA WORTH VISITING?
Compared with other places I’ve visited and felt an immediate connection with, I didn’t love Taormina. When I go somewhere I want to feel like a local, or at least get an understanding of what a life lived there would be like. In Taormina this is a lot harder to do, and it’s not just because it’s a playground for the 1%.
Yeah, Taormina is beautiful, and if you value sea views and close access to Mount Etna above everything then you’re probably gonna love it. Furthermore, if you’re a wine lover, amateur cook, a budding geologist/volcanologist, or beach and ocean lover, there are plenty of cool things to do in Taormina for you. But, it’s certainly not an off-the-beaten-path destination.
Because its so small the majority of its tourism workforce aren’t locals either. As a result, I found it very hard to experience authentic encounters with local culture and people until I left to visit the villages around Mt Etna. I think this is why I didn’t vibe as hard with Taormina as I was hoping to.
I also can’t shake the feeling that Taormina may just be one of those places that can only be enjoyed with a sh@t ton of money in your back pocket, which also leaves a bad taste. If that’s not you either, then certainly consider visiting in the shoulder seasons (April-May or September-October) to avoid the heaviest crowds and most inflated prices.
From June 19th – 29th Heymondo are offering a 15% discount for all TTT readers on their travel insurance plans! So if you’re planning ANY trip this year, now’s the time to get covered!
Final tips to get more from Taormina
Accommodation: More so than anywhere I’ve ever visited, in Taormina you need to book your hotel QUICKLY! You may even have found that all of my hotel recommendations above are already fully booked.
Food: Look for smaller, family-run trattorias away from Corso Umberto – you’ll have a better chance finding fairly priced and authentic Sicilian grub.
Get up early: Arrive at major attractions early in the morning to beat the crowds, especially at the Ancient Theatre and Isola Bella beach.
For those of you interested in visiting the other end of Italy, then do check out my post on Lake Garda, which I feel much more enthusiastic about. And for those of you that strongly agree or disagree with my thoughts on Taormina, I’d love to read them in the comments below.
Arrivederci!
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