When planning a trip to Sicily, Taormina often tops the list of must-visit destinations. I can’t argue that on the surface at least, Taormina is absolutely stunning. With insanely gorgeous views over the Ionian Sea, an ancient Greek theatre, and picturesque hilltop streets designed for romantic evening walks, I can understand why it has long been a magnet for tourists seeking out out ‘la dolce vita’ in Sicily.
But, as someone who values connection as the most element of travelling, is Taormina really worth visiting? If you’re on the fence about adding it to your itinerary, my travel guide is designed to help you decide, with sections on how to get there, hotels in town, the local food and wine scene, things to do, and day trips from Taormina. So dust off your gelato, and let’sa-go, Mario…
Hype vs. Reality
Taormina has earned a reputation as one of the jewels of Sicily, not least after having received the full glossy HBO treatment in the popular TV series, White Lotus. To some extent, Taormina absolutely lives up to this hype. The town’s main highlight is undoubtedly its dramatic location perched on a cliff overlooking turquoise waters, with Mount Etna perfectly framed behind it in the distance. It screams “LOOK AT ME!”, and if you’re all about stunning vistas, Taormina will certainly not disappoint.
My visit though, left me with mixed feelings, as I’m not sure that I ever got a true sense of the place. I visited in April, well before the onset of the peak summer season, but even then the town had a bit of a soulless feel to it.
I’m not one to reject a place just because it’s popular (just check out my post on how to avoid the crowds in Venice for proof), but any well-oiled tourist machine also needs a significant dose of daily local life to keep things real. I’m just not sure that I found that in Taormina. After all, good looks tire quickly without substance and authenticity.
My favourite part of Taormina in fact, was leaving it to visit the Mt Etna region to meet local vintners and sample some magnificent volcanic wines. If you do one thing here, I urge you to make it a wine tour from Taormina to explore Mt Etna’s wineries, but more on that below.
If you visit Taormina during peak season, be prepared for crowded streets, full restaurants, and higher prices. Yet I didn’t really have to deal with any of that as I visited in spring. Anyway, as I sit here scratching my head, let’s dive into what this place is all about…
GETTING THERE
Palermo to Taormina
I flew into Palermo and then rented a car at Palermo airport, which was by far the quickest and easiest way of reaching Taormina. The driving took around three hours, and while on Google Maps it looked like a potentially picturesque coastal road that I’d be following most of the way, it wasn’t really. The views were fleeting at best, so on the way back I took the inland route through interior Sicily, and this was far more interesting.
From Palermo, you can also get a cheap train to Taormina, with a stop in Catania or Messina en route. These take anything between 4-6 hours – check out Omio for the most comprehensive routes.
Catania to Taormina
Catania is much closer to Taormina than Palermo, and from Catania airport you can get a local train to Taormina-Giardini in just one hour. Book tickets with Omio, as they have by far the largest number of departures to match with your arrival time. Train tickets cost around 8 EUR per one-way journey.
Car Rental From Catania Airport
Of course, you could also rent a car from Catania airport if you don’t fancy roughing it on a train or bus, and let’s face it, if you’re planning a visit to Taormina then you probably aren’t the type who roughs it anyway.
WHERE TO STAY IN TAORMINA
Everybody loves a sea view so it’s no surprise that accommodation in Taormina can get a little pricey (to say the least). While that may not bother some of its more well-heeled visitors, here are my suggestions of where to stay in Taormina for all budgets…
Alternatively, just check out the interactive hotel map that I’ve inserted below, so you can do you own live hotel searches…
Budget Accommodation
B&B Casa Andrea is a great value bed and breakfast option with a panoramic terrace, and just a few minutes walk from the Greek theater. You also get to meet and chat with a genuine local host, Andrea, so if you’re looking for more of a connection, this could be the place for you.
For something super quaint about 15 minutes on foot from the center, check out Villa Sara, with its huge terrace overlooking town.
Alternatively, there’s also Bed and Breakfast Sorriso, which is located just one street back from Corso Umberto, right in the heart of it. What made this place stand out to me was its rave reviews, which frequently mention the generous local hospitality guests received.
Mid-range Hotels
I stayed at Villa Astoria, about a 10 minute walk to the start of Corso Umberto. The location was great, and the view from the hotel room was spectacular, as you can see below.
The room itself was pretty basic, but it did have everything I needed. Certainly not luxurious, but clean and comfortable. I opted for a sea view room of course, which is compulsory if you’re visiting Taormina.
Mixed reviews of the hotel staff though – the guy running the breakfast service seemed rather jaded, despite it only being April, while reception were brighter and more attentive.
Other solid mid-range hotels in Taormina include Hotel Bel Soggiorno, which is located in a large garden full of citrus trees in a slightly more residential part of town. On site parking for those who hired a car too.
For those who want to be right in the town center, Hotel Taodomus is a highly rated mid-range hotel along Corso Umberto which also serves a buffet style breakfast on a terrace overlooking Mount Etna and the Mediterranean.
Also consider Hotel Casa Adele, as well as the slightly more modern Le Moresche Taura and Mina apartment, with its private garden, cooking facilities and on-site parking.
Finally, there’s also Maison Blanche Taormina, set a little outside of the center, whose hospitality is particularly revered by previous guests.
Luxury Hotels in Taormina
Arguably the most luxurious hotel in all of Taormina is the San Domenico Palace. With two separate wings, one of which is restored from a 15th century convent. Expect breath-taking views, marble bathrooms, several pools, a gym, bar, gorgeous inner courtyard, and exceptional service.
Opposite the Greek theater you’ll find the equally plush Grand Hotel Timeo, along with its Michellin starred restaurant, sauna, Turkish bath, and gym.
And for something altogether more colonial (with its own tea room), then do try the Ashbee Hotel, dear!
Live Interactive Accomodation Map
Decide for yourself where to stay in Taormina by checking out up-to-date live prices from all the main hotel booking sites, for the exact dates you’re travelling on…
WHERE TO EAT
Far be it for an Italian to exaggerate about the quality of their own food, but before visiting Taormina I’d spoken with many, and they all told me that Sicilian cooking is among the world’s finest. Excitedly and studiously, I began researching where to eat in Taormina, but I was left somewhat confused about what to expect after having read mixed reviews of so many different restaurants in town.
Either my Italian acquaintances had once again gotten a little over-excited (bless ’em) and the food just wasn’t that great in Sicily, or Taormina’s visitors had higher standards due to the generally higher price of dining out in this exclusive hilltop town…
Anyway, after all this pontificating, I was bloody hungry, so I headed out to the highly rated Osteria Da Rita Dal 1991 on my first night in Taormina. I had a very disappointing seafood pasta dish, which was sweet, lacking in flavour, and the busiate style pasta was far too ‘al dente’ for my tastes. Overall, it reminded me of something I cooked for myself back in my early student years, when I had no idea what I was doing.
It wasn’t just that the bruschetta was burnt and ripped up my mouth, nor that my girlfriend was equally unimpressed with her dish, it was more that the in-restaurant experience bore no similarity to the glowing reviews I’d read.
Maybe this isn’t Taormina’s fault though. After all, how are we to be genuinely surprised by the quality of a meal out after comparing and contrasting its Google, Trip Advisor, and Yelp reviews before even deeming it worthy of our patronage?! Food just tastes better without expectations*.
*The irony of me banging on about this while continuing to write this judgement piece on Taormina is not lost on me, by the way.
Where TO Eat in Taormina!
Over the course of the next couple of days, though, I did find a couple of great places to eat in Taormina. On the personal recommendation (ah, the good old days) of some Dutch tourists that I toured Mt Etna with, I tried the family run Trattoria de Nino, and it was marvelous.
Their truffle and shrimp tagliatelle was the most luxurious truffle dish I’ve ever eaten, and their veal in lemon sauce was equally impressive. The place doesn’t look much from the outside (or from the inside for that matter), but don’t judge this book by its cover, as you’d be missing out.
Earlier in the day we’d also made up for the burnt Bruschetta from the night before, with a literal smorgasbord of the stuff just off Corso Umberto, at a place called Arco Rosso. Both establishments went a long way in making up for the underwhelming dining experience from the first night, and I do rather wish that I had visited them first.
Of course, my visit to Taormina was relatively short, and everyone can have a bad day at the office, but if you’re a foodie looking for authentic Sicilian dishes (and you can’t afford Michellin level dining), it might be worth moving further away from the main tourist streets. You may even want to consider short trips to neighbouring towns like Giardini Naxos for better value dining.
WHAT TO SEE IN TAORMINA CENTER
Teatro Antico di Taormina (Ancient Theatre)
Those Greeks certainly knew how to set the stage, huh? With arguably one of the most breathtaking backdrops you’ll find on this planet, this ancient Greek theater is one of the most iconic landmarks in Taormina. The 3rd century BC ruins are remarkably well-preserved, and the location set against the backdrop of the sea and Mount Etna is truly spectacular. And the best part is that it remains an active venue for concerts and festivals today.
Check out the website of Taormina Friends Club, as they have details of all the events taking place here across the year. If opera is your thing, then also consider this local opera performance at the nearby Nazarena Theater, which includes arias and duets from composers like Verdi, Puccini, and Mozart.
Corso Umberto
Corso Umberto is Taormina’s undeniably pretty main street, lined with shops, cafes, and boutiques. It’s a lovely spot for an evening stroll, but it does get busy, which inevitably takes a little away from its charm. Full of souvenir shops and fashion stores, most of Corso Umberto is catered specifically to tourists and high-end shoppers. I personally have little interest in handbags and designer names, but the ambience was nonetheless pleasant. Perfect for an after-dinner stroll, many of the town’s hotels and restaurants are located here.
Piazza IX Aprile
This bustling square half way down Corso Umberto, is the heart of Taormina and offers spots to relax with a coffee or aperitivo, people-watch, and take in sweeping views of the coastline. If you’re visiting in the evening, try to grab a seat at one of the cafes (easier said than done) and enjoy the sunset.
Isola Bella
A quick 10-minute cable car ride down to the coast, Isola Bella is a tiny island just off the coast that you can walk to at low tide. Often called the “Pearl of the Ionian Sea,” its beach is pebbly, but the clear waters make it a good spot for snorkeling and swimming. However, much like the rest of Taormina, it can get very crowded in peak season, despite its status as a nature reserve, so try to visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
Villa Comunale
Serving as an antidote to the crowded streets of Taormina, Villa Comunale is a lovely, serene spot. Originally designed by English woman, Lady Florence Trevelyan, it’s filled with lush greenery, exotic plants, and Victorian-style pavilions. Strolling along its pathways, you’ll find benches to sit on and appreciate the panoramic views of the coast and Mount Etna. A great place to escape the chaos of Corso Umberto for a few minutes of peace and quiet.
DAY TRIPS FROM TAORMINA
If you’re on the fence about spending more than a couple of days in Taormina, consider using it as a base to explore other parts of eastern Sicily. Indeed, one of the main reasons why people head out to this part of the world is to visit one of the world’s most active volcanoes, the imperious Mount Etna. When in Rome, as they say…
Mount Etna Day Trip
Visiting the active volcano of Mount Etna and hiking around its lower slopes was absolutely something I wanted to do, not least to explore the unique landscapes that you see up there. I therefore took a small-group guided tour from Taormina, which involved being picked up in town, and riding a minivan for about an hour to the base of the volcano, to then get kitted out with hiking boots, a warm jacket, and a helmet for the upcoming day’s activities.
This was April, so as soon as we then reached the drop-off point to begin our morning mini-hike up the volcano, the temperature sank, and snow fell as we walked. To me, this made the experience super authentic, as snow in Sicily was certainly not what I was expecting. However, one or two people in our group weren’t quite prepared for the drop in temperature and seemed somewhat relieved when we returned down to warmer temperatures.
My advice is thus to be aware that even when opting for a shorter hike, which only explores the outer ranges of the volcano, you’ll be at altitude so the weather becomes unpredictable and chilly that high up.
Anyway, our geologist hiking guide took us along a route through the old lava flows, which meant we saw nobody else on the volcano, which really added to the uniquely barren feel of this environment.
Equally, witnessing how old lava flows have shaved off large portions of the nearby landscape as they oozed down towards lower ground, was equal parts fascinating and eery. This is a deathly environment that is constantly evolving and reinventing itself, and I found it rather fascinating.
After the 2 hour morning hike, we returned to the local winery where we had earlier picked up our boots and hiking gear from, to enjoy a wonderful tasting menu style Italian lunch, and wine tasting. The Etna wines we sampled there were fantastic, while the food complimented them perfectly.
There were a few other groups doing similar day tours as us, but this didn’t detract from the overall experience – it just highlighted how sought after this kind of experience in eastern Sicily is.
After lunch, we learned a little more from our guide about the geology and rock formations that comprise these volcanic landscapes, as he took us into a couple of shallow local caves to get up close and personal. After that we visited the Alcantara gorge, which was pretty cool, although not cool enough to warrant the hundreds of other tourists present.
After a full-day in this weird and wonderful natural landscape, we were then dropped back to Taormina at around 5:30pm. All in all, it was a thoroughly enjoyable day, with a little bit of exercise, and plenty of nature, wine and good Italian food.
The Contrade dell’Etna Wine Festival
Alongside (mini) hiking Mount Etna, I had also wanted to visit one or two local Etna wineries, to go deep into local wine making tradition in Sicily. I identified one particular winery and called them to arrange – Zumbo Vini winery – run by two sisters, Erica and Ramona, is located on the northern slopes of Etna, an area known for some of the best terroir (growing conditions) in all of Sicily.
I was told that a visit to their winery wouldn’t be possible, due to one of Sicily’s most prestigious wine festivals taking place that same weekend. Instead, they encouraged me to come along and meet up with them in person at the festival. I’m all for following local recommendations, so we jumped in our little hire car and set out to find the Contrade dell’Etna festival. After a 30 minute drive inland, we found it among the grounds of a lovely Sicilian golf club, Il Picciolo Etna Golf Resort & Spa.
Entry cost 35 EUR for a day ticket. The stalls were set up with local producers chatting away with interested winos, all while pouring them generous samples. There were several food stands serving up hungry visitors various local specialties, such as the famed Sicilian street food snack, Arancini (which, by the way, is perfect for such an event as the dense rice helps to soak up the booze!).
The Zumbo sisters and their team, hailing from the small village of Rovittello on the particularly fertile soils of the northern side of the volcano, were very gracious with their time (and pours), once I found them inside the event.
Over the course of the day, I learnt a lot about Mt Etna wines, and the tradition of wine making in eastern Sicily on all sides of the famous volcano. The golf club that was hosting the event even had a couple of their pros give out free golf lessons down on the range, so of course I also got involved with that to work on my swing in between pours.
If you find yourself in Sicily in early spring (the festival date in 2026 is April 19th), check out the festival website to see if it’s on while you’re in town. It’s totally worth your time if you have any passing interest in Sicilian wines or local culture.
Wine Tours From Taormina
If you miss the wine festival though, certainly consider taking a guided wine tour to Mount Etna instead, as Taormina is within easy reach of Mt Etna’s fertile soils, and the many pretty wine villages located on its slopes. Get Your Guide offer a pretty comprehensive selection of Sicilian wine tasting experiences from Taormina, so here are my recommendations…
Small-group tours: the pretty medieval village of Castiglione di Sicilia is a highlight of this full-day tour from Taormina, which also includes two winery visits and a traditional Sicilian lunch paired with Etna wines, or for a slightly shorter tour, check out this 6 hour Etna wine and food experience.
Private tour: if you prefer not to rough it with the rest of us unwashed masses, then splurge instead on this private food & wine experience, which visits 3 top Etna wineries over the course of the day.
OTHER THINGS TO DO IN TAORMINA
Cooking Classes
Something that Italy (usually) excels at is food. So for all you aspiring home-cooks there are several Sicilian cooking classes to choose from…
There’s a Cannolo cooking class for those with a sweet tooth, an Arancino class in a lively town center restaurant, or a Taormina market tour, cooking class and wine tasting on this 5* rated half-day experience.
For those of you looking for a broader learning experience, I recommend the latter, as this covers several dishes, and you’ll be sampling local wines alongside the meal you prepare. If you can’t spare the 6 hours, though, and would prefer a similar, albeit slightly shorter experience then do this Sicilian market tour and cooking class instead, as it runs for 3.5 hours – starting at 10am most mornings.
Boat Trips
I’m a huge nature lover, and this part of the world is blessed with local dolphins, so if you have an interest in marine wildlife watching, then definitely consider going on this 2.5 hour sunset dolphin spotting tour, which includes prosecco and nibbles, some interesting tidbits about the local coastline, and a stop for snorkeling and a swim.
The tour runs with 4pm and 6:30pm departure times in summer, and then expect the schedule to change slightly as the days get shorter. There are limited spots on the boat so book up early. Fans of the Netflix show ‘ The White Lotus’ will also get to see several of the series’ most iconic filming locations.
SO, IS TAORMINA WORTH VISITING?
Compared with other places I’ve visited and felt an immediate connection with, I didn’t love Taormina. When I go somewhere I want to feel like a local, or at least get an understanding of what a life lived there would be/was/is like. In Taormina this is a lot harder to do, and it’s not just because it’s a playground for the 1%.
Because it’s so small, the majority of its tourism workforce aren’t locals. As a result, I found it very hard to experience authentic encounters with local culture and people until I left to visit the villages around Mt Etna. I think this is why I didn’t vibe as hard with Taormina as I was hoping to.
Yeah, Taormina is beautiful, and if you value sea views and close access to Mount Etna above everything then you’re probably gonna love it. Furthermore, if you’re a wine lover, amateur cook, a budding geologist/volcanologist, or beach and ocean lover, there are plenty of cool things to do in Taormina for you. But, it’s certainly not an off-the-beaten-path destination.
I also can’t shake the feeling that Taormina may just be one of those places that can only be enjoyed with a sh@t ton of money in your back pocket, which also leaves a bad taste. If that’s not you either, then certainly consider visiting in the shoulder seasons (April-May or September-October) to avoid the heaviest crowds and most inflated prices.
Final Tips to Make Taormina Better
Accommodation: More so than anywhere I’ve ever visited, in Taormina you need to book your hotel QUICKLY! You may even have found that all of my hotel recommendations above are already fully booked.
Food: Look for smaller, family-run trattorias away from Corso Umberto – you’ll have a better chance finding fairly priced and authentic Sicilian grub.
Get up early: Arrive at major attractions early in the morning to beat the crowds, especially at the Greek Theatre and Isola Bella beach.
For those of you interested in visiting the other end of Italy, then do check out my travel guides on Lake Garda, Venice and Bologna, which I feel much more enthusiastic about. And for anyone that strongly agrees or disagrees with my thoughts on Taormina, I’d love to read them in the comments below.
Arrivederci!
My feelings exactly. High prices,mediocre food quality and a gazzilion of tourists. One cannot control the amount of visitors,I get it but it gets so crowded it is hard to enjoy anything.
Best idea was to go outside Taormina and enjoy Letojjani beach and the Etna tour.
Listed prices outside are not what you pay,all sorts of cover charges that leaves a bad taste.
We had a way better time in Ortigia
Thanks for these recommendations on what to see outside Taormina. I never made it to Letojanni beach nor Ortigia so this is great to know.