When planning a trip to Sicily, Taormina often tops the list of must-visit destinations. Known for its stunning views of the Ionian Sea, its ancient Greek theatre, and picturesque streets, it has long been a magnet for tourists seeking out out ‘la dolce vita’ in Sicily. But is Taormina really worth visiting? If you’re on the fence about adding it to your itinerary, this travel guide which covers how to get there, hotels in town, the local food and wine scene, things to do, and day trips from Taormina, is designed to help you decide.
Hype vs. Reality
Taormina has earned a reputation as one of the jewels of Sicily, and to some extent, it lives up to the hype. The town’s main highlight is undoubtedly its dramatic location, perched on a hill overlooking turquoise waters and framed by Mount Etna in the distance. This postcard worthy setting is undeniably impressive, and if you’re all about stunning vistas, Taormina will certainly not disappoint. However, my visit left me with mixed feelings. While its location was beautiful, I’m not sure that I ever got a true sense of the place. I visited in April, well before the onset of the peak summer season, but even then, the town had a bit of a soulless feel to it. I’m certainly not one to reject a place just because it’s popular, but any well-oiled tourist machine also needs a significant dose of daily local life to keep things authentic. I’m just not sure that I found that in Taormina. Without question, if you visit during peak season, be prepared for crowded streets, busy restaurants, and higher prices, but I didn’t really have to deal with that, as I visited in spring. Anyway, here’s my guide to Taormina…
Getting there
How to get from Palermo to Taormina
I flew into Palermo and then rented a car at Palermo airport, which was by far the quickest and easiest way of then reaching Taormina. Driving from Palermo to Taormina took around three hours, and while it looked like a potentially picturesque journey based on the coast road that I’d be following most of the way, it wasn’t really. The views were pretty limited, so on the way back I took the inland route through interior Sicily, and this was more interesting. From Palermo, you can also get a cheap train with a stop in Messina en route. These take anything between 4-6 hours – check out Trainline for further details. The best you can do on a bus is from Palermo to Catania (approx 3 hrs), and then take a second local bus from Catania to Taormina. Check out Flixbus for the first leg if this works for you, and then read below for the second leg.
How to get to Taormina from Catania
Catania airport is much closer to Taormina than Palermo. From the airport you can jump on a local bus to Taormina in less than 90 minutes. Book tickets with Omio, as they have by far the largest number of departures to match with your arrival time, and bus tickets cost around 7 EUR per journey. Of course, you could also rent a car from Catania airport if you don’t fancy roughing it, and let’s face it, if you’re planning a visit to Taormina then you probably aren’t the type who roughs it anyway.
Car rental from Catania airport
Where to stay in Taormina
When considering whether or not Taormina is worth visiting, many people will be convinced immediately by the spectacular views afforded by most of its hotels, perched on a hilltop overlooking the deep blue ocean. Everybody loves a sea view, so it’s no surprise that accommodation in Taormina is a little pricey. That probably won’t bother most of its well-heeled visitors, but nonetheless, here are my suggestions of where to stay in Taormina for different budgets…
Budget B&Bs and hotels in Taromina
Look at B&B Casa Andrea for a cheaper bed and breakfast option, with a panoramic terrace, and just a few minutes walk from the Greek theater. You also get to meet and chat with a genuine local host, Andrea, so if you’re looking for more of a connection, this could be a the place for you. Also check out Villa Sara, a quaint option, with a huge terrace which overlooks Taormina, about 15 minutes on foot from the center. Alternatively, there is also Bed and Breakfast Sorriso, which is located just one street back from Corso Umberto. This place has rave reviews about the local hospitality, so definitely check it out.
Hotel search in Taormina
Mid-range hotels in Taormina
I stayed at Villa Astoria, about a 10 minute walk to the start of Corso Umberto. The location was great, and the view from the hotel room was spectacular, as you can see. The room itself was pretty basic, but it did have everything we needed. Certainly not luxurious, but equally, it was clean, and did its job. I opted for a sea view room of course, which is compulsory if you’re visiting Taormina. The guy running the breakfast service wasn’t the most friendly, and seemed rather jaded, even though it was only April, but reception were brighter and more attentive. Hotel Bel Soggiorno is located in a large garden full of citrus trees in a slightly more residential part of town. As such, it exudes a calm tranquility for its guests. On site parking for those who hired a car too. Also check out Hotel Casa Adele, as well as the slightly more modern Le Moresche Taura and Mina apartment, with its private garden, cooking facilities and on-site parking. Also Hotel Taodomus for a highly rated mid-range hotel along Corso Umberto, right in the heart of the action.
Luxury hotels in Taormina
Arguably the most luxurious hotel in all of Taormina is the San Domenico Palace. Part of the Four Seasons group, it consists of two separate wings, one having been lovingly restored from a 15th century convent. Expect all the typical bells and whistles, breath taking views, marble bathrooms, several pools, a gym, a bar, a gorgeous inner courtyard, and exceptional service. For the price though, it’s the least you’d expect.
Opposite the Greek theater you’ll find the equally plush Grand Hotel Timeo, along with its Michellin starred restaurant, sauna, turkish bath, and gym. Suits you, Sir!
For something a little more reasonable, check out Maison Blanche Taormina, set a little outside of the center, whose local hospitality is particularly revered by previous guests. Also Taodomus Boutique Hotel on Corso Umberto, which serves a buffet style breakfast on a terrace overlooking Mount Etna and the Mediterranean. And for something with a little more character, as well as its own tea room, then do try the Ashbee Hotel.
What to See and Do in Taormina
Teatro Antico di Taormina (Ancient Theatre)
Is It Worth It? Yes, especially for history buffs and culture enthusiasts. Those Greeks certainly knew how to set the stage, huh?! With arguably one of the most breathtaking backdrops you’ll find on this planet, this ancient Greek theatre is one of the most iconic landmarks in Taormina. The 3rd century BC ruins are remarkably well-preserved, and the location set against the backdrop of the sea and Mount Etna is truly spectacular. And the best part is that it remains an active venue for concerts and festivals today! Check out the website of Taormina Friends Club, as they have details of all the events taking place here across the year.
Tip: If opera is your thing, then also consider this local opera performance at the nearby Nazarena Theater, which includes arias and duets from composers like Verdi, Puccini, and Mozart.
Corso Umberto
Corso Umberto is Taormina’s undeniably pretty cobbled main street, lined with shops, cafes, and boutiques, as such it’s pretty much impossible to avoid, even if you wanted to. It’s a lovely spot for an evening stroll, but it does get extremely crowded, which inevitably takes away from its charm. Full of souvenir shops and stylish stores, most of Corso Umberto is catered specifically to tourists and high-end shoppers. I personally have little interest in handbags and designer names, but the ambience was pleasant enough, nonetheless. Perfect for an after-dinner stroll, and you’ll find many of the town’s hotels and restaurants are located here.
Piazza IX Aprile
This bustling square half way down Corso Umberto, is the heart of Taormina and offers an excellent spot to relax, people-watch, and take in the sweeping views of the coastline. If you’re visiting in the evening, try to grab a seat at one of the cafes (easier said than done) and enjoy the sunset.
Isola Bella
Is It Worth It? Yes, for beach lovers who don’t mind pebbles. A quick 10-minute cable car ride down to the coast, Isola Bella is a tiny island just off the coast of Taormina that you can walk to at low tide. Often called the “Pearl of the Ionian Sea,” its beach is pebbly, but the clear waters make it an good spot for snorkeling and swimming. However, much like the rest of Taormina, it can get very crowded in peak season despite its status as a nature reserve, so try to visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
Villa Comunale
Is It Worth It? Yes, as it serves as an antidote to the crowded streets of Taormina, when you need a quiet break. Villa Comunale is a lovely, serene spot. Originally designed by English woman, Lady Florence Trevelyan, this public garden is filled with lush greenery, exotic plants, and Victorian-style pavilions. Stroll along its pathways, and you’ll find benches to relax while soaking in panoramic views of the coastline and Mount Etna. It’s a perfect place for a peaceful moment or a few photos, making it a charming, underrated attraction in Taormina.
The Food Scene
Far be it for an Italian to exaggerate about the quality of their own food, but I’ve spoken with many who told me that Sicilian cooking is among the world’s finest. The island is known the world over for its incredible dishes, so with that in mind, I was excited to get stuck into the local grub. I studiously did my research, but had read mixed reviews about so many different restaurants in Taormina, which left me a little confused, I must admit. It seems either the food wasn’t that great there, or just that the tourists and locals had extremely high standards, perhaps because of the generally higher price of dining out in this exclusive hilltop town.
Undeterred, I did my research and headed out to the highly rated Osteria Da Rita Dal 1991 on my first night in Taormina. But, I had a very disappointing seafood pasta dish, which was sweet, lacking in flavour, and the busiate style pasta was far too ‘al dente’ for my tastes. Overall, it reminded me of something I cooked for myself back in my early student years, when I had no idea what I was doing. It wasn’t just that the amuse-bouche bruschetta was burnt and ripped up my mouth, nor that my girlfriend was equally unimpressed with her dish, it was more that the in-restaurant experience bore no similarity to the glowing reviews I’d read. This is, of course, a problem with the review culture that we all now live in, as it’s getting increasingly harder to be pleasantly surprised by the quality of a meal when you’ve spent time comparing and contrasting its Google and/or Trip Advisor ratings before deeming it worthy of your patronage.
Over the course of the next couple of days, though, I did find a couple of great places to eat in Taormina. On the personal recommendation (ah, the good old days) of some Dutch tourists that I toured Mt Etna with, we tried the family run Trattoria de Nino, and it was marvelous. Their truffle and shrimp tagliatelle was the most luxurious truffle dish I’ve ever eaten, and their veal in lemon sauce was equally impressive. The place doesn’t look much from the outside (or from the inside for that matter), but don’t judge this book by its cover, as you’d be missing out. Earlier in the day we’d also made up for the burnt Bruschetta from the other night, with a literal smorgasbord just off Corso Umberto at a place called Arco Rosso. Both places went a long way in making up for the underwhelming dining experience from the first night, and I wish I had visited them first.
Of course, my visit to Taormina was relatively short, and everyone can have a bad day at the office, but if you’re a foodie looking for authentic, good value Sicilian dishes (i.e no Michellin starred restaurants), it might be worth moving further away from Corso Umberto and the other main tourist streets, or even consider short trips to neighboring towns like Giardini Naxos, for a relative splurge, or just for a more genuine experience, as so many of Taormina’s restaurants were super busy, and quite pricey to boot.
Day Trips From Taormina
If you’re on the fence about spending more than a couple of days in Taormina, consider using it as a base to explore other parts of eastern Sicily. One of the main reasons why people venture out to eastern Siciliy is to visit one of the world’s most active volcanoes, the imperious Mount Etna. When in Rome, as they say…
Mount Etna Day Trip from Taormina
The imposing silhouette of Mount Etna looms large over the region, and visiting this active volcano is absolutely worth it for the unique landscapes that you’ll see up there. Whether you want to hike up its slopes, take a guided tour, or even ride a cable car, there are plenty of ways to explore this natural wonder. I took a small-group guided tour from Taormina. We were picked up in town, and then rode a minivan for about an hour to then get kitted out with hiking boots, a warm jacket, and a helmet for a little bit of caving which we’d be doing later in the afternoon. This was April, and as soon as we reached the drop-off point to begin our mini hike up the volcano, the temperature sank, and the snow began to pepper us as we walked.
To me, this made the morning hike experience super refreshing and authentic, as snow in Sicily was not what I was expecting, but I know that one or two people in our group weren’t quite prepared for the drop in temperature and seemed somewhat relieved when the hike finished and we returned to warmer temperatures. Just be aware that even if you opt for a shorter hike, which only explores the outer ranges of the volcano, you will be at altitude, so the weather becomes unpredictable and chilly that high up. I thought it was great, and seeing how the old lava flows have shaved off large portions of the nearby landscape as it oozed down towards lower ground was truly fascinating.
After the 2 hour hike we returned to the local winery where we had earlier picked up our boots and hiking gear from, to enjoy a wonderful tasting menu style Italian lunch, and a wine tasting. The Etna wines were fantastic, while the food complimented them perfectly. There were a few other groups doing similar day tours as us, but this didn’t detract from the overall experience – it just highlighted how sought after this kind of experience in eastern Sicily is. Our hiking guide even took a route through the old lava flows that meant we saw nobody else on the volcano. After lunch, we learned a little more from our guide about the geology and rock formations that comprise these volcanic landscapes, as he took us into a couple of shallow local caves to get up close and personal. We then returned back to Taormina at around 5:30pm. All in all, it was a thoroughly enjoyable day, with a little bit of exercise, and plenty of nature, wine and good Italian food to appreciate.
Contrade dell’Etna Wine Festival
Alongside (mini) hiking Mount Etna, I had also wanted to visit one or two of the local Etna wineries, to go deep into the local wine making tradition in Sicily. I identified one particular winery and called them to arrange. Zumbo Vini winery, run by two sisters, Erica and Ramona, is located on the northern slopes of Etna, an area known to have some of the best terroir (growing conditions) in all of Sicily.
I was told that a visit to their winery wouldn’t be possible, due to one of Sicily’s most prestigious wine festivals taking place that same weekend. Instead, they encouraged me to come along and meet up with them in person at the festival. I’m all for following local recommendations, so I jumped in my little hire car (the girlfriend was driving) and went off to find this Etna wine festival, Contrade dell’Etna. After a 30 minute drive inland, we found it among the grounds of a lovely Sicilian golf club, Il Picciolo Etna Golf Resort & Spa. The stalls were set up like any food and drinks market, with each individual local producer chatting away with interested winos, and pouring them generous tastes from their Etna wineries. I paid about 35 EUR for a day ticket. There were also several food stands serving up hungry winos local specialities, such as the famed Sicilian street food snack, Arancini, which by the way, is perfect for such an event as the dense rice really helps to soak up that booze.
The Zumbo sisters and their team I chatted to were very welcoming and gracious with their time (and pours). The entire day was a fantastic way to understand so much about Etna wineries, and the tradition of wine making in eastern Sicily, on all sides of the famous volcano. The golf club that was hosting the event even had a couple of their pros give out free golf lessons down on the range, which I also got involved with. If you find yourself in Sicily in late winter or early spring, check out the festival website to see if it’s on while you’re in town. It’s totally worth your time if you have any passing interest in Sicilian wines and local culture. If not, then check out Winedering for a selection of different wine tasting experiences around Mount Etna. This how I had initially found the Zumbo sisters.
Things I would do if I had more time
So, Is Taormina Worth Visiting?
Of course, this is highly subjective, and will depend wholly on your own personal experience. But compared with other places I’ve visited, I didn’t love Taormina. When I visit somewhere, I want to feel like a local, or at least try to understand what a life lived there would be like, but in Taormina this is a lot harder to do, and it’s not just because it’s small and filled with high-end shops which cater to the 1%.
Having said that, Taormina is undeniably beautiful, and if you’re seeking stunning scenery, historical sites, close access to Mount Etna, and a chance to relax by the sea, it can be a great addition to your Sicily itinerary. However, if you’re looking for off-the-beaten-path experiences, super authentic encounters with local culture and people, or exceptional food at good value, you might feel a little underwhelmed. Consider visiting in the shoulder seasons (April-May or September-October) to avoid the heaviest crowds and inflated prices. And if you do go, make sure to explore the nearby attractions around Mount Etna and take the time to discover other lesser visited villages in eastern Sicily. For those of you interested in visiting the other end of Italy, then do check out my post on Lake Garda.
Final Tips for Visiting Taormina
Accommodation: Book your hotel well in advance if you’re visiting during peak season, as rooms fill up quickly. Food: Avoid the main tourist traps by looking for smaller, family-run trattorias away from Corso Umberto and off the beaten path. You’ll have a better chance of enjoying authentic, delicious Sicilian cuisine. Timing: Arrive at major attractions early in the morning to beat the crowds, especially at the Ancient Theatre and Isola Bella.
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