As I continue in my vain attempt to lure people away from ubiquitous schnitzels, literally boring the vegetables off restaurant plates across Vienna, I now offer up another alternative: known locally as a ‘Stelze‘, English speakers and search engines alike seem to know it as the ‘pork knuckle Vienna’. Yes, this is the long overdue follow up to my post on traditional food in Austria, written for those who seek inspiration on what else to order in Austria and where to go for it. I’ve long been recommending these pork knuckles to my guests on my kayak, hiking and wine tours in Vienna, as not only is it a big part of local culture, but it’s damn good! So for all you carnivores out there, I’ll also serve up a few restaurant recommendations so you can get hold of your own pork knuckle in Vienna…

What is a Stelze?

The dish in question is called a ‘Stelze’ in Austria, or a ‘Schweinshaxe’ in Bavaria. Basically, this is a huge pork knuckle, which is first boiled with caraway seeds to produce tender salty meat before then being roasted to create the most amazing crispy crackling. A Stelze is typically served with a couple of pieces of very dry sourdough bread, and some small servings of grated horseradish, and one or two mustards for dipping. Word to the wise – the grated horseradish is definitely NOT shredded mozzarella, so unless you’re into food masochism then don’t make the same mistake as my brother by helping yourself to a large spoonful on its own – horseradish has the same effect as wasabi!

What should I order with my pork knuckle in Vienna?

One of these bad boys is easily enough to share between two people, and if you don’t eat that much, you could even share one Stelze between three. If however, you have a massive appetite and have had a hard day riding the Big Bus Tour, or kayaking on the Old Danube, then be my guest and order one all for yourself! Expect to pay around €22, including the basic extras (mustard, horseradish and bread) which typically come as standard. However, I’d give the bread a miss and supplement your order with fries, potato salad, maybe a rosti with garlic puree, or a side of sauerkraut. Personally, I recommend sauerkraut as its acidity cuts through the fattiness of the meat perfectly. Looking around you as you eat, you’ll notice that it is compulsory to eat a Stelze while consuming copious amounts of beer and intermittently smashing beer glasses together with your Freunde.

Pork knuckle Vienna

Where to eat a Stelze?

You can find pork knuckles all over Vienna, but perhaps the most traditional spot to eat one is the old imperial hunting grounds, and modern day theme park, Prater, in Vienna’s 2^nd district. The Prater park itself is definitely worth a visit while you’re in Vienna regardless of whether you’re a pork fiend or not. It usually has a fun summer vibe due to all the amusement rides and generally happy and smiling children milling around, which makes for a nice change from the somewhat more dour adult population. There are also lots of green spaces around there to enjoy, the ultra-modern architecture of Vienna’s University of Economics, and one of Vienna’s most famous landmarks – the Riesenrad (big wheel). Anyway, back to where you can get your filthy mitts on this heart attack on a plate…

Where to find the best pork knuckle in Vienna?

My first ever Stelze in Vienna was at Zum Englischen Reiter (the English Rider). This is a traditional Austrian restaurant with loads of indoor and outdoor seating located right in the middle of the amusement park, among the rides. Just over the road from there is also the Schweizerhaus, which can be best described as a culinary machine. It is extremely busy here throughout spring and summer, but because it is so vast you can usually find a table, as so many people are constantly coming and going. The Schweizerhaus is also where many football fans congregate before the national team plays its games so it generally has a lively, almost Oktoberfest style beer hall atmosphere, yet most of it is outdoors. A stone’s throw from the Schweizerhaus, you’ll also be able to sniff out a Stelze at Kolariks Luftburg Restaurant. All three of these establishments are guaranteed to give you meat sweats, and to be honest, with such a voluminous and industrial dish, there isn’t too much difference in terms of which spot serves up the best pork knuckle in Vienna, but if I was forced to choose, I’d probably go for Zum Englischen Reiter.

Other places to find traditional food in Vienna

For those of you who want to immerse yourselves in the local food culture in Vienna, but aren’t bowled over by the idea of consuming so much meat on ethical, dietary, or coronary grounds, then check out Eat With, as they link passionate local cooks with visitors by cooking for them in their own homes. It’s a cool way to meet local people, become friends, and to learn about the food culture from proper locals.

For a good overview of Vienna’s food scene, then check out this Tastes of Vienna food tour which takes you to some locations and districts that you wouldn’t find on your own. If you want some coffee with your food tour then check out the Food, Coffee, and Market Walking Tour instead, as it also dives into Vienna’s famous coffee scene. And for all you dessert heads out there, then indulge your sugar cravings on the Sweet Secrets of Vienna Dessert Tour, where you’ll be able to consume enough chocolate, pasties and sweet treats to sink a ship.

And, even though I’ve been trashing it in this and other posts, for those of you that wanna learn a how to cook the Austrian classics of schnitzel and apple strudel, then pick up some skills by joining an Austrian Cooking Class where you’ll be preparing a 3-course meal with a local chef.