This guide on things to eat in Vienna is definitely for the carnivores out there. As I continue in my vain attempt to lure people away from ubiquitous schnitzels, literally boring the vegetables off restaurant plates across Vienna, I now offer up another alternative: known locally as a ‘Stelze‘, English speakers would call it a Vienna pork knuckle. Yes, this is the long overdue follow up to my post on traditional food in Austria, dedicated to those seeking inspiration on what else to order in this country. I’ve long been recommending these pork knuckles to my guests on my kayak, hiking and wine tours in Vienna, as not only is it a big part of local culture, but it’s damn good. So for all you carnivores out there who’ve been looking for what to eat in Vienna, I’ll also serve up a few Stelze restaurant recommendations, and I’ll give ideas of Vienna food tours to consider, if the idea of so much meat is already making you sweaty…
What is a Stelze?
The dish in question is called a ‘Stelze’ in Austria, or a ‘Schweinshaxe’ in Bavaria. Basically, this is a huge pork knuckle, which is first boiled with caraway seeds to produce tender salty meat before then being roasted to create the most amazing crispy crackling. A Stelze is typically served with a couple of pieces of very dry sourdough bread, and some small servings of grated horseradish, and one or two mustards for dipping. Word to the wise – the grated horseradish is definitely NOT shredded mozzarella, so unless you’re into food masochism then don’t make the same mistake as my brother by helping yourself to a large spoonful on its own – horseradish has the same effect as wasabi!
What should I order with a Stelze?
One of these bad boys is easily enough to share between two people, and if you don’t eat that much, you could even share one Stelze between three. If however, you have a massive appetite and have had a hard day riding on the hop-on hop-off bus, or kayaking on the Old Danube, then be my guest and order one all for yourself. Expect to pay around €22, including the basic extras (mustard, horseradish and bread) which typically come as standard. However, I’d give the bread a miss and supplement your order with fries, potato salad, maybe a rosti with garlic puree, or a side of sauerkraut. Personally, I recommend sauerkraut as its acidity cuts through the fattiness of the meat perfectly. Looking around you as you eat, you’ll notice that it is compulsory to eat a Stelze while consuming copious amounts of beer and intermittently smashing beer glasses together with your Freunde.
Pork Knuckle Vienna
Where to eat a Stelze?
You can find pork knuckles all over Vienna, but perhaps the most traditional spot to eat one is the old imperial hunting grounds, and modern day theme park, Prater, in Vienna’s 2nd district. The Prater park itself is definitely worth a visit while you’re in Vienna regardless of whether you’re a pork fiend or not. It usually has a fun summer vibe due to all the amusement rides and generally happy and smiling children milling around, which makes for a nice change from the somewhat more dour adult population. There are also lots of green spaces around there to enjoy, the ultra-modern architecture of Vienna’s University of Economics, and one of Vienna’s most famous landmarks – the Riesenrad (big wheel). Anyway, back to where you can get your filthy mitts on this heart attack on a plate…
Which restaurant serves the best pork knuckle in Vienna?
My first ever Stelze in Vienna was at Zum Englischen Reiter (the English Rider). This is a traditional Austrian restaurant with loads of indoor and outdoor seating located right in the middle of the amusement park, among the rides. Just over the road from there is also the Schweizerhaus, which can be best described as a culinary machine. It is extremely busy here throughout spring and summer, but because it is so vast you can usually find a table, as so many people are constantly coming and going. The Schweizerhaus is also where many football fans congregate before the national team plays its games so it generally has a lively, almost Oktoberfest style beer hall atmosphere, yet most of it is outdoors. A stone’s throw from the Schweizerhaus, you’ll also be able to sniff out a Stelze at Kolariks Luftburg Restaurant. All three of these establishments are guaranteed to give you meat sweats, and to be honest, with such a voluminous and industrial dish, there isn’t too much difference in terms of which spot serves up the best pork knuckle in Vienna, but if I was forced to choose, I’d probably go for Zum Englischen Reiter.
Alternative Vienna Food Tours
If you aren’t bowled over by the idea of consuming so much meat on ethical, dietary, or coronary grounds, then, no worries, cos I have plenty of other recommendations for what to eat in Vienna.
For a good overview of Vienna’s food scene, then check out this Tastes of Vienna food tour which takes you to some locations and districts that you wouldn’t find on your own. If you want some coffee with your food tour then check out the Food, Coffee, and Market Walking Tour instead, as it also dives into Vienna’s famous coffee scene. And for all you dessert heads out there, then indulge your sugar cravings on the Sweet Secrets of Vienna Dessert Tour, where you’ll be able to consume enough chocolate, pasties and sweet treats to sink a ship.
Also, check out Eat With, as they link passionate local cooks with visitors by cooking for them in their own homes. It’s a cool way to meet local people, become friends, and to learn about the food culture from proper locals.
For those of you that wanna learn a how to cook the Austrian classics of schnitzel and apple strudel, then level up your skills by joining an Austrian Cooking Class where you’ll be preparing a 3-course meal with a local chef.
Things to Eat in Vienna: Outro
The Austrian pork knuckle or ‘Stelze‘ is well-known among locals, yet easily missed by foreign tourists, so I wanted to feature it here. A couple of minor caveats: 1) don’t expect great (or even good) service at the places mentioned above – the waiters tend to be very busy (not that that should ever be an excuse), and you may have to wait a while to get your order off (especially at the Schweizerhaus); 2) on occasion some parts of the meat around the edges of the knuckle can dry out and become a little tough due to the roasting process. However, neither of these are a big deal, so go to the Prater, eat your pork knuckle, drink your beer and experience a big part of Viennese life! And, like I said, joining one of those Vienna food tours is a good way to understand how Austrians eat, so if you want even more meat and potatoes, then you’re defo onto a winner.
By now, you probably need a good long alpine hike to burn off those calories, so if you need transport to get up there, check out my post on car hire in Austria.
Until next time, you animals!
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