For many reasons, Vienna in December is a place that all Christmas lovers need to experience at least once in their lives. Whether you’re sipping Glühwein at one of its famous Christmas markets, or warming up in a grand Viennese coffeehouse, the city’s culinary scene thrives in the colder months. Picture hearty Austrian cuisine, from roasted pork to steaming bowls of goulash, keeping you warm and satisfied when it’s freezing outside.
Winter in Vienna is also the perfect time to up your cultural game by visiting one of the city’s world-class concerts, operas, or museums. And for you romantics out there, picture baroque architecture draped in twinkling lights, ice-skating with beautiful city backdrops, cobblestone streets dusted with frost, Barry White classical music ensembles (ok, that’s a lie), and the scent of roasted chestnuts filling the air.
Welcome to our insider’s guide on the best things to do in Vienna in December. We’re covering the best Christmas markets and non-touristy coffee houses to visit, Vienna’s classical music scene in winter, museums for kids and grown ups alike, and the best places to go ice skating. So grab a sausage, meine Damen und Herren (ladies & gents) and let’s plan your perfect Christmas in Vienna…
Things To Do In Vienna In December
Discover the Vienna Christmas Markets
Let’s face it, no trip to Vienna in December is complete without a visit to its world-famous Christmas markets. Known locally as Christkindlmarkts, these are the heart and soul of the holiday season here, drawing visitors from around the globe. Whether you’re warming up with a cup of spiced Glühwein or indulging in a cheeky bratwurst, the markets offer a pleasant mix of festive hussle & bussle and culinary discovery. They’re also a great place to grab some last-minute presents from, especially if your loved ones are heavily into soap, beeswax or scarves (aren’t we all, though?). Vienna boasts several markets, each with its own distinct charm. Here are the big hitters first:
Wiener Christkindlmarkt at Rathausplatz
Set right in front of the grand city hall (Rathaus), this is Austria’s largest and most iconic Christmas market, and its the one you probably saw photos of when you first googled Vienna in December. With over 150 stalls, it’s a spectacle of festive lights, gingerbread (Lebkuchen), and selfie-taking tourists from all over the world. Due to its popularity, it has its fair share of mass-produced trinkets, as well as some less traditionally Austrian snacks, but it’s still a must-see. The lights and location alone make it worth braving the crowds.
Maria-Theresien-Platz Christmas Market
Nestled between the Kunsthistorisches and Naturhistorisches Museums, this market offers a smaller, more intimate experience compared with the Rathaus. Here, you’ll find some more unique gift options and snacks, and fewer tourists. The location is also very cool, with two of the city’s most imposing buildings staring each other down, with little old you caught in the middle eating a chesnut.
Schönbrunn Palace Christmas Market
The Christmas market at Schönbrunn is a legit fairy tale experience, with the backdrop of one of Vienna’s most iconic landmarks. The market is renowned for its elegant stalls, showcasing traditional crafts, and some interesting regional Austrian food, although as one of the bigger markets, it also has its fair share of tacky crap. After all those Glühweins, don’t miss the chance to clear your head with a stroll through the beautifully lit palace back garden, and even up the Gloriette, to enjoy some lovely raised views over western Vienna.
Vienna Christmas Market Food & Drink Tour
However, if you want to escape the tourist crowds and dive into the markets loved by locals, check out the Christmas Market Food & Drink Tour by our sister company, Venture Vienna. This exclusive tour takes you to four of Vienna’s best-kept secrets, where you’ll savor traditional Austrian festive treats, sip on seasonal drinks, and pick up some interesting insight into Viennese culture. Plus, you’ll master the city’s public transport system while exploring off-the-beaten-path neighborhoods. Tours run from mid-November to December 23rd, perfect for those looking to experience a more authentic Christmas in Vienna. Tours are limited to small-groups only.
Black Friday 2024 Deals on Vienna Hotels
From now until December 4th 2024, Booking.com are offering up to 35% off stays worldwide.
📅 Booking dates: November 21 – December 4, 2024
📅 Stay dates: November 21 – December 31, 2024
Here’s a direct link to their promotion. In case you haven’t already booked your hotel, make the most of this promotion but book fast, as Vienna’s hotels get super busy in December with visitors arriving from all over the world for the Christmas markets.
Attend a Winter Concert or Opera
Vienna, the City of Music, comes into its own in December, with a range of classical music performances that complement the festive season. Whether you’re a lifelong classical music aficionado or just a curious philistine, the city’s legendary concert halls and opera houses are here to make you classy again. Here’s your guide to Vienna’s top music venues and what they offer in December:
Wiener Musikverein
Arguably the most famous concert hall in the world, the Musikverein is home to the Vienna Philharmonic and known for its exceptional acoustics, especially in its impressively grand, Golden Hall. During December, the Musikverein hosts a variety of holiday-themed concerts, including classical recitals and special Christmas performances. Don’t hold your breath if you want a ticket to the renowned New Year’s Concerts though – tickets are drawn by lot exclusively on the Vienna Philharmonic website.
Here’s what’s on at the Musikverein this December. Tip: Definitely book your tickets early to secure a spot in this iconic venue.
Staatsoper (Vienna State Opera)
A visit to the Vienna State Opera is about as Vienna as it gets. Located in the heart of the city on Vienna’s famous ‘Ringstrasse‘, you’ll find a dazzling array of operas and ballets. Even if opera isn’t your usual cup of tea, the experience of attending a performance here is worth it for the grandeur alone, and you can get some reasonably priced standing tickets too. You can also just take a tour of the building if you can’t quite bring yourself to go full opera.
Tip: If Staatsoper tickets are hard to come by during your visit, also consider performances at the Volksoper (the people’s Opera) in Vienna’s 9th district, and Theater an der Wien, located at Naschmarkt.
Schönbrunn Palace Orangerie
Part of the imperial Schönbrunn Palace (the summer residence of famous Habsburg Empress, Maria Theresa), the Orangerie holds a special place in Vienna’s musical heritage, as Mozart himself performed here regularly at the behest of the Habsburgs. Today, concerts feature both Mozart and Strauss heavily. For an extra dose of historical authenticity, musicians wear traditional 18th-century costumes during performances. The palatial setting, and the proximity to the Schönbrunn Christmas market, make this venue a big favorite for December visitors.
You can also book dinner packages for a complete night of Austrian cuisine and culture. Here are the options for Orangerie tickets.
Kursalon
If you prefer your classical music a little less intense, the Kursalon is the location for you, as it features Vienna’s more energetic classical music traditions, particularly the works of Johann Strauss. Nestled in the picturesque Stadtpark om the Ringstrasse, this is home to the renowned Salonorchester Alt Wien, which perform a repertoire of waltzes, polkas, and ballets. The music is upbeat and celebratory, perfectly capturing the essence of Vienna’s golden age of waltz.
Beyond its regular concerts, the Kursalon is famous for its New Year’s Eve gala events, where guests enjoy a full evening of dining, dancing, and live music, which culminates in a fireworks display over Stadtpark at midnight. Tickets here are easier to come by compared with the Musikverein above.
Visit a Traditional Viennese Coffee House
There’s no better time to experience Vienna’s legendary coffeehouse culture than in winter. When the cold bites, retreating to a warm, inviting café for a steaming cup of coffee and a slice of diabetes just makes sense. While many visitors flock to iconic spots like Café Central, Café Landtmann, Café Sacher, and Café Demel, be prepared for long waits and crowds. These cafés, while charming, are incredibly popular with tourists, and the last thing you want when its freezing outside is to have to wait in line.
By the way, don’t feel obliged to order the frankly overrated Sachertorte or Apfelstrudel, as I reckon there are better options. For some of my top dessert recommendations, check out my post on Austrian food. Anyway, if you want a more authentic and relaxed coffee house experience, check out these much quieter, but no less authentic cafes to avoid the crowds:
- Location: Gumpendorfer Straße 11, 1060 Vienna
- What makes it special: Though it has a rich history dating back to 1880, Café Sperl tends to fly under the radar compared to more famous spots. With its original interior and traditional billiard tables, it offers an old-world atmosphere. It’s perfect for experiencing a quieter side of Viennese coffee culture. High ceilings, typical cakes, grumpy waiters and Goulash – it’s got everything you’d expect (but perhaps didn’t necessarily want) from a Vienna cafe.
- Location: Gumpendorfer Straße 10–12, 1060 Vienna
- What makes it special: not just some random guy from London, as the name may suggest, Phil is actually a hybrid café and bookstore with a hip, modern ambiance. The ‘Phil’ part is short for philosophy. While not a traditional Viennese café as such, it’s a favourite among locals for its laid-back atmosphere, good coffee, and interesting selection of books and records. They do a decent lemon meringue pie too. And if it’s a little too modern for you, then just walk over the road and go to Café Sperl instead.
- Location: Josefstadter Straße 66, 1080 Vienna
- What makes it special: Located in the less-touristy, but extremely Viennese 8th district, Café Hummel is a true Viennese institution. With a laid-back vibe, it attracts locals who enjoy its classic décor, good coffee and Apfelstrudel.
- Location: Stubenring 24, 1010 Vienna
- What makes it special: Café Prückel is known for its 1950s-style interior (no jukeboxes, I’m afraid). As such, it has a markedly more understated feel compared with some of the other big hitters in the first district, but nonetheless it offers a quintessential Viennese coffeehouse experience.
- Location: Otto-Bauer-Gasse 5, 1060 Vienna
- What makes it special: A charming and cozy café with vintage, slightly worn furniture that gives it ‘character’. It’s a beloved local hangout, known for its coffee and homemade cakes. It hasn’t changed in decades.
- Location: Alser Straße 67, 1080 Vienna
- What makes it special: a bit of a hidden gem, loved by locals for its laid-back atmosphere, affordable prices, and big collection of board games. Cosy and somewhat quirky, unlike the grand tourist-filled cafés, Benno is more of a neighbourhood café that attracts students, locals, and people up for a game. Expect traditional Austrian comfort food like Schnitzel, goulash, and Kaiserschmarrn. Completely unpretentious.
- Location: Argentinierstraße 49, 1040 Vienna
- What makes it special: Tucked away in the 4th district, Café Goldegg has beautiful Art Nouveau interiors and a quiet, cozy atmosphere. It’s a great place to spend a leisurely afternoon with coffee and pastries, and like all of the above, it’s far less touristy than more central cafés. Very close to the Belvedere, so a great retreat for anyone feeling a bit queasy after seeing ‘the kiss’.
Ice Skating in Vienna
If you’re looking for a quintessential winter activity in Vienna, and you don’t particularly value your ligaments or bones, then ice skating should be at the top of your list. Whether you’re an ice skating pro or a teeth-gritting beginner hoping not to faceplant, the city offers two standout ice-skating venues:
Vienna Ice Dream (Wiener Eistraum)
Set against the stunning backdrop of the illuminated Rathaus (City Hall), the Vienna Ice Dream is way more than just a standard ice rink, as it features winding ice trails that snake through the beautifully lit park. It doesn’t matter if you’re gracefully twirling your way through the trees, or nursing a freshly broken hip, the sight of the Rathaus in its festive glory makes it all worthwhile. And the fun doesn’t stop after the Christmas markets close; the Vienna Ice Dream typically runs well into January and February.
Wiener Eislauf-Verein (Vienna Ice Skating Association)
For a more traditional skating experience, head to the Wiener Eislauf-Verein at 22 Lothringerstraße, near Stadtpark. This massive 6,000m² rink offers a classic rectangular layout, perfect for skating purists who need more space to express themselves on the ice. Located on the south side of the 1st district, it’s a 2 minute walk from the Stadtpark U-Bahn station (U4).
Open from 9am til 8pm (9pm on Fridays), the rink boasts one of the longest operating seasons in Vienna, running from November through March, making it a reliable spot for winter activities well into January and February. Every now and then they also organise silent discos on ice (as if ice-skating wasn’t dangerous enough, let’s add dancing). You can purchase tickets online via their official website, but the interface is a bit clunky and lacks an English translation. Alternatively, buy tickets on-site, but to avoid queues during peak times go earlier in the day. In summer, the venue transforms into a beach volleyball court, proving it’s truly a venue for all seasons. I personally cannot wait for next October’s conker championship.
Visit a Museum
Winter in Vienna provides the perfect excuse to have a look around some of its world-class museums and historic sites. With fewer outdoor distractions, now’s the time to dive headfirst into art, history, and science like never before. And if that sounds too much like hard work, just bring a kid so you’ve got an excuse to visit some of the fun ones.
Art Museums
For lovers of fine art and history, you can’t go wrong with these iconic venues:
- Kunsthistorisches Museum: Home to masterpieces by Raphael, Caravaggio, and Bruegel, this is a must for art aficionados.
- Belvedere Palace: Famous for housing Gustav Klimt’s The Kiss, this baroque palace itself is gorgeous.
- Albertina Museum: A blend of classical and contemporary art, with rotating exhibitions that cater to ‘diverse’ tastes.
I’ve already written a very silly guide to Vienna’s art galleries and museums, so if you’re a bit of a clandestine philistine, then you’ll probably enjoy reading that.
Natural History Museum
Traveling with kids? The Natural History Museum is definitely a crowd pleaser. Your little ones will love/hate the giant moving dinosaur model, while the extensive collection of stuffed animals offers plenty of weird and wonderful creatures for them to gawp and laugh at. It’s an educational and entertaining stop that works even better when the weather outside is foul.
Museum of Science and Technology (Technisches Museum Wien)
My personal favourite, and another great choice for families is the Vienna Technical Museum in the 14th district, very close to Schönbrunn Palace. It has plenty of transport related exhibits from old steam trains, airplanes, as well as games and play areas for little ones to charge around in. There’s more than enough here to keep Mums and Dads entertained too. If your kids even remotely like trains and other vehicles, they’ll love this museum. Book tickets here.
Wien Museum
The newly renovated Wien Museum (Vienna Museum) located at Karlsplatz, features an exhibition about life in 1920’s and 30’s Vienna in the build-up to Austria’s ‘Anschluss’ with Nazi Germany. This self-effacing portrayal of how many Austrians welcomed Hitler into the city is essential for anyone seeking a deeper understanding of the city’s complex history. Admission is free.
Imperial Treasury
Step further back in time with a visit to the Imperial Treasury. Located within the Hofburg Palace complex, this treasure trove boasts an 800-year collection of dazzling jewels, crowns, and regalia from the Habsburg and Holy Roman Empires. It’s a glimpse into the opulence and power of one of Europe’s most influential dynasties. While not exactly a hidden ‘gem’, jewel be crazy to miss it, boom boom! Entrance tickets can be booked here.
Ride the Hop-on, Hop-off Bus
Say what you will about tourist buses, but I’m no snob, and I firmly believe that the trusty Hop-On, Hop-Off Bus is one of the easiest and most efficient ways to explore a new city. Vienna is no different. Not only do these buses take you past the city’s most iconic landmarks, but they also provide commentary along the way, giving you a solid introduction to the city’s historical highlights and buildings. The flexibility is unbeatable and in Vienna, it gets you easily out to some of the (slightly*) harder to reach attractions like Schönbrunn Palace, Hundertwasserhaus, or the Belvedere.
If you want to maximize your sightseeing and cover a lot of distance without necessarily being out in the cold so long, pre-book your tickets with the all-electric Big Bus Tours in Vienna to get the best deal.
*In fairness, nowhere is that hard to reach in Vienna due to its incredibly well-connected and efficient public transport network.
Austrian Food in December
Food, glorious food! Now, while I’ve already made my views on Austrian cuisine clear in another post, it does make for ideal winter eating. This is because many of Vienna’s most beloved dishes are best enjoyed when it’s cold outside, with a few glasses of Blaufränkisch red wine from Burgenland, keeping you just the right side of hibernation mode. Not too many people want to eat a pound of fried meat and potatoes when it’s 30+ celsius outside, as it often is here in summer, but when the temperatures are closer to zero, the heaviness of Austrian cuisine really comes into its own. So check out my post above, as well as the following seasonal dishes to eat in Vienna during winter:
Martinigansl: making November great again
In Austria, Gänsezeit (Goose season) is usually celebrated from the end of October until just before Christmas. There’s nothing better than getting your chops around a roasted crispy goose served with the typical sides; red cabbage, potato dumplings (which you can often bounce like a tennis ball), chestnuts, and sometimes baked apples. Especially popular from St Martin’s day (Nov 11th) onwards, goose remains a popular dish in restaurants well into December. Restaurants, hotels, and heurigen (wine taverns) offer special Gansl menus during this season, so it’s an ideal time for tourists and locals alike to get stuck in.
Fiakergulasch: Gulasch on steroids
Rustic and filling, the Fiakergulasch isn’t fine dining, but it is very Austrian. The dish was made famous by drivers of the horse drawn carriages in Vienna (the Fiakers), who’d love nothing more than filling up on this hearty meal before or after a long, hard day staring at horse butts. It’s a rich Austrian goulash (thicker than its Hungarian counterpart), some form of carb, a fried egg on top and a cheeky little sausage as well. Available year round, this is Viennese comfort food 101, and a solid winter warmer. The stars of the show are the slow cooked beef, onions, paprika that make up the stew base. Much improved when served with either Spätzle (Austrian pasta) or bread dumplings rather than just a bread roll.
Vanillekipferl: Christmas cookies
Arguably the most festive of all Austrian food are Vanillekipferl. These crescent-shaped cookies made with a buttery dough of flour, ground almonds (or hazelnuts), and vanilla, are dusted with vanilla-infused powdered sugar after baking to create a lovely buttery, sweet, vanillary bite. These labour intensive little cookies are especially popular during the Christmas season, and are beloved for their crumbly texture and sweet, nutty flavor. Originating in Vienna, their crescent (kipferl) shape is said to symbolize the Ottoman crescent, and is linked to Austria’s historical victory at the Siege of Vienna in 1683. Vanillekipferl are a beloved part of Austrian holiday baking traditions, and they are attempted by many an Austrian family throughout advent.
Vienna in December: Final Thoughts & Tips
There’s an undeniable charm about Vienna in December, and its guaranteed to thaw even the coldest of bah-humbugging scrooge hearts. So go ahead and over indulge at those Christmas markets and cafes, attend that classical concert you’ve been avoiding all these years, remember your age out on the ice rink, warm up in a Viennese museum, or simply take a stroll around the UNESCO-listed city center to appreciate the Christmas vibes.
Of course, Vienna in December can be seriously chilly, and while it may seem obvious, do come prepared with a warm winter coat (ideally woolen), thermal undies, some THICK socks, a woolen hat & scarf, and some comfortable boots that you’ve already worn in a bit.
If this guide to winter in Vienna has you got you feeling like a kid on Christmas morning, then check out some of our other resources to really get the most from your trip:
- Where to stay: Explore my curated list of Vienna’s independent boutique hotels for a cozy and unique place to hang your stocking this December.
- Getting around: Thinking of visiting a few other places during your stay in Austria? Then don’t miss TTT’s take on car rental in Austria.
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