Gordon Bennett Ramsay, the food in Lisbon is incredible! If you consider yourself a foodie, then you’re in for a treat, as this is a city with high food standards, pretty much across the board as far as I could tell. It’s one of those rare places where you can truly relax when ordering food, without the need to overthink your choices. Pointing to almost anything on the menu will likely yield something hearty, refined and delicious.
Having said that, to truly savour the magic of Lisbon’s food scene, it helps to know what to look for. As a lifelong foodie fatty myself, I’ve come up with a list of potential local dishes to stuff your faces with. And yes, I laboriously did the same to bring you only the most authentic recommendations.
If eating like a local is at all important to you, then read on, as I’m also covering some of the city’s more off-the-beaten-path and quirky restaurants, as well as the most authentic local food tours and cooking classes to check out. So grab your knives and forks, and I hope you’re hungry, cos we’re about to dig in…
FOOD IN LISBON - 11 THINGS YOU NEED TO PUT IN YOUR MOUTH
Oh my cod! What's with Lisbon's obsession with Bacalhau?
Bacalhau (salted codfish) is EVERYWHERE in Lisbon, which is kind of strange because cod mostly swim in the north Atlantic, typically in Icelandic, Norwegian and Canadian waters. However the import of salted cod has been an important part of Portuguese trade and culture for centuries, and the Portuguese people are the undisputed masters of cooking it (although I’m sure a few Brits may have something to say about that).
Because Bacalhau has been salted, dried and then rehydrated, it retains its texture and flakiness and doesn’t just turn into mush, making it suitable for use in wide variety of dishes (see below). Anyway, let’s get straight onto the top foods to try in Portugal instead…
SEAFOOD
Pastéis de Bacalhau
Pastéis de Bacalhau, also known as codfish cakes or salt cod fritters, are very popular in Lisbon. These savory snacks are made with salted cod (bacalhau), potatoes, onions, garlic, and parsley. On one the main shopping streets, you’ll find Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau, where you can watch them preparing these cod fritters. They also sell a version filled with molten hot cheese, but beware, and it may explode all over your jumper upon first bite, just as mine did.
Bacalhau à Brás
“Bacalhau à Brás” is one of the most beloved traditional Portuguese dishes. Made by sautéing flaked salt cod with finely chopped onions until soft, then mixing in golden strips of fried potatoes (i.e. crisps!). This savory base is bound together with scrambled eggs, before a generous sprinkle of fresh parsley and black olives are often added as a garnish. Widely considered the epitome of Lisbon’s comfort food, Bacalhau à Brás is hearty, unpretentious and nostalgic for locals.
Bacalhau com Natas
Bacalhau com Natas is another popular food in Lisbon, known for its creamy and comforting characteristics – like eating a duvet. This dish typically includes layers of salted cod, potatoes, onions, and a rich béchamel-like sauce made with cream. It may not look like much, and gets a bit samey towards the end, but it will certainly fill you up after a day of pounding Lisbon’s seven hills. There are literally hundreds of ways that Portuguese people prepare salted cod, so if none of the above take your fancy, there’s plenty of other options.
Gambas à Guilho
“Gambas à Guilho” is a popular Portuguese dish featuring prawns (gambas) in an amazingly simple but absolutely mega olive oil, garlic, parsley, and white wine puddle. The dish is known for its simplicity, allowing for the natural sweetness of the prawns to shine in the garlic infused olive oil.
It’s eaten most often as a starter and it’s advisable to have some crusty bread and a chilled glass of Portuguese white on-hand. If you don’t soak up all that incredible garlic oil with the crusty bread, you need to take a long hard look at yourself. Gambas à Guilho is simple seafood done excellently well, just don’t overcook the prawns if you’re trying it at home.
Polvo (octopus)
Much like cod, albeit to a lesser extent, Octopus is prepared in so many different ways, and as such has become one of Lisbon’s signature dishes. Polvo à Lagareiro (grilled octopus) is a classic Lisbon favourite with its tender inner and crispy and smoky outer. Usually drowned in garlicky olive oil and served with smashed skin-on potatoes, it is indeed a winner. Arroz de Polvo (octopus rice) is more of a comforting and hearty dish, where the octopus is cooked with rice, tomatoes, onions, and various seasonings in one pot.
Sardinhas Assadas (grilled sardines)
Sardines are an iconic dish in Lisbon, reflecting the city’s maritime traditions and its proximity to the Atlantic ocean. Freshly grilled sardines go down especially well during Lisbon’s popular Santo António Festival (or the Festas de Lisboa) in June. The little fish are typically seasoned with sea salt and olive oil, then grilled over an open flame to be served immediately by street vendors or at local restaurants.
If you’re visiting Lisbon in winter then pick up a few tins of sardines instead. These are often elaborately decorated and make a perfect gift for friends or family – because nothing says “I missed you” like fish. You can also visit to the ‘Mercado da Ribeira’ (Time Out Market) to soak up more sardiney sights and smells, hmmm.
OTHER ICONIC DISHES
Frango Peri Peri (chicken piri piri)
Frango means chicken. “Peri Peri” is a type of chili pepper. Frango Peri Peri together is a dish of grilled marinated chicken pieces, using a sauce made with Peri Peri chili peppers, garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, and various spices. Peri Peri chicken, also known as Piri Piri, is a popular dish in Portugal and especially its African colonies, Angola and Mozambique.
In Lisbon, Frango Peri Peri is usually served with rice, fries, grilled vegetables, or a salad. The popularity of Frango Peri Peri has extended way beyond its Portuguese and African origins, and thanks to Nando’s Peri Peri chicken can now be found on many high streets across Europe, but of course the real thing in Lisbon is far superior.
Feijoada
Feijoada is a slow-cooked Portuguese stew with black beans and a variety of meats. It was brought to Brazil by Portuguese colonizers in the 16th century and while there, the dish underwent further development and adaptation, becoming influenced by the culinary practices of African slaves and indigenous communities. It found its way back to Portugal and is now a very popular and hearty dish to be enjoyed across Lisbon.
Queijo de Azeitão
This sheep’s milk cheese, hailing from the Azeitão region near Lisbon is classified as a “DOP” (Protected Designation of Origin), which means that only cheeses produced within the specified region and following specific production methods can bear the name Queijo de Azeitão. The rind is thin, and the interior is soft and buttery so it’s mostly spreadable. Much like any good cheese, the taste becomes more intense as it matures. The cheese is often served as a starter or pre-meal snack at restaurants. It’s bloody delicious with crusty bread and a bit of local charcuterie too!
Bifanas, Pregos and Sande de Leitão
I first had a Bifana as part of a food and wine tour that was nearing its end. I must therefore apologise for the crap photo, as I was already a little tipsy by this point! A Bifana is tender marinated pork loin served in a typical Portuguese crusty roll, where you then add either mustard or peri peri sauce. This is Lisbon street food 101. The beef version is called a Prego, and the suckling pig and crispy crackling sandwich is called a Sande de Leitão. Especially good when you’re on the go and just want something quick, yet typically Lisbon.
PORTUGUESE SWEETS AND DESSERTS
Pastel de Nata
A Pastel de Nata is basically a Portuguese custard tart with a beautiful flaky pastry crust. The custard filling is typically made with a combination of egg yolks, sugar, milk, and vanilla. You’ll find them everywhere in Lisbon and across Portugal. Nowadays you can often find them in your home country too, albeit nowhere near as good as the freshly made originals in Lisbon.
What is the history of Pastel de Nata?
Its origin is often credited to the Jerónimos Monastery in the Belém district of Lisbon. The story goes that in the 18th century, monks at the monastery used egg whites to starch their religious garments, resulting in a surplus of egg yolks. To avoid wasting them, the monks began making pastries with the leftover egg yolks, creating what would later become the pastel de nata.
The recipe for pastel de nata was initially kept a closely guarded secret within the monastery. However, during the liberal revolution in the 1820s, many religious institutions were shut down, and in 1834, the Jerónimos Monastery closed. At that point, the recipe was sold to a local sugar refinery, which eventually led to the establishment of the famous Pastéis de Belém bakery in 1837. Pastéis de Belém continues to operate and is known for being THE place to go grab some golden tarts of joy.
Where to find the best Pastel de Nata?
While Pastéis de Belém is perhaps the most famous purveyor of pastel de nata, these custard tarts have become a staple in Portuguese cuisine, so various bakeries and pastry shops across the country produce their own amazing versions. One such option in downtown Lisbon is Manteigaria, who, in my view, actually make better Pastel de Nata than the overly touristy Pastéis de Belém.
THE BEST LISBON FOOD TOURS
I’m all about sampling as much local produce as possible (I am reminded of this every time I look in the mirror), so the first thing I did upon arrival to Portugal was join a Lisbon food tour. I reckon you can learn a lot about a new city by chowing down on its most famous dishes, especially if you have a well informed guide who’s skilled at giving you interesting commentary to accompany the grub.
Lisbon Food & Wine Walking Tour
I did this Food and Wine Walking Tour with Inside Lisbon, and it was a solid introduction into both the food culture of Lisbon, and the city as a whole. Our guide was enthusiastic and informative, and luckily for us, was also a history major at university, so we got detailed background info on the cultural and historic trends which have shaped how the Portuguese eat over the centuries. We sampled cod fritters, several wines, cheeses and cured meats, and we enjoyed a Bifana too. It was boozy, informative and fun, and I can thoroughly recommend it, especially if your focus is more on wine.
Lisbon Tastes and Traditions Food Tour
The Tastes and Traditions Tour from Devour Tours is a comprehensive exploration of some of Portugal’s most iconic dishes, both sweet: Pastel de Nata, Bola de Berlim, and Pao de Deus, and savoury: Bacalhau a Bras, Arroz de Marisco (seafood rice), Bifana (pork sandwich), as well as various other cured meats and drinks. It’s amazing value for what you get, and the tour includes several local culinary institutions on its itinerary. When booking directly, you’ll also get it much cheaper than if you use Get Your Guide or Viator. And if neither of those take your fancy, then also consider checking out…
1) if you want a private food tour then check out the Undiscovered Lisbon Food & Wine Tour, which focuses on the neighbourhoods of Baixa and Mouraria. This will likely appeal most to those interested in the influence of Portugal’s colonies on its modern-day food culture. For visitors who value flexibility you can choose between several different start times throughout the day, from morning until night.
or…
2) for a deep dive into Lisbon’s oldest district, Alfama, then check out this small-group food tour with no less than 18 tastings!
or…
3) you can also do a Food and Fado Tour in Alfama and Mouraria – perfect for those who fancy a night out through two of Lisbon’s most atmospheric neighbourhoods. The food tour combines an exploration of these hard-to-navigate districts, a traditional 3-course meal, other Lisbonian specialities along the way, and a live performance of the soulful legendary music style – Fado. Bang. For. Your. Buck.
COOKING CLASSES
If you want to learn how to cook Portuguese food (and not just eat it), then you have options. Cooking Lisbon offer a 3.5 hour Portuguese cooking class which includes a 3-course dinner. Local wine and nibbles are provided as you cook – so take it easy on the vino otherwise your final dish is gonna be rubbish!
Pastel de Nata cooking classes
Loved pretty much the world over these days, you can learn how to make this luscious little yellow jewels (can you tell I’m a fan?) at one of the following cooking classes:
1) at Nat’elier bakery alongside an expert pastry chef; or 2) with Home Cooking Lisbon at their headquarters. Both options last 2 hours, both operate pretty much every day at various times, and both let you take your golden creations home with you. But only option 2 also provides Portuguese liqueur tastings (Port wines, Ginginha etc.) to accompany the masterclass.
Social eating
If you prefer a more sociable experience, where you connect with local chefs and other travelers, then check out a dinner party with Eat With. They provide a platform for talented local cooks to host international travelers in their own homes, so aside from eating some of the best food in Lisbon, you’re meeting locals, getting insider tips for the rest of your stay, and potentially making long-term friends. And if you want to learn how to cook it and not just eat it, then then also offer a number of different cooking classes in Lisbon too.
WHERE TO EAT IN LISBON
I’ve been told that I love making bold statements from time to time, so here’s another – I’ve eaten in the best restaurant in Lisbon and the food was only an 8 out of 10. That’s because it was all about the owner, Dom Luis, an elderly Portuguese man who was bursting with so much character, authenticity and life spirit that it made the food taste better and the wine remarkable.
This very local place will not be for everyone, and some may be put off by the owner’s eccentric ways (or the disposable tablecloths), but for me, this restaurant was an original in a world already too full with overpriced tasting menus. The food and wine was incredible value and plentiful, and I’ve never had such an entertaining dining experience in all my travels.
The highlight of my dining experience here came as I was umming and ahhing about what type of potatoes to order with my main. My girlfriend asked Dom Luis for his input into the matter. Having just served the table next to us with one of the potato options that I was considering (I later found out these were called batatas a murro), he took a fork and without asking the gentleman next to us, skewered one of his potatoes, marched his way over to me, ordered me to ‘abre la boca‘ and then shoved said potato into my mouth.
I was equal parts amazed and scared by this point, so I just nodded my approval, passively confirming the choice that was so directly presented to me. Being force fed that potato was the most interesting thing that has ever happened to me in a restaurant. The potato’s previous owner, by the way, was clearly a regular, and didn’t bat an eyelid throughout, as if this kind of thing was a regular occurrence at Adega Dom Luis.
I ordered a pork kebab, which came with plethora side dishes, including creamed spinach, a type of Portuguese bread sauce, tomato salad, a wonderfully rich Quejo de Azeitão and the aforementioned potatoes which were smashed with the back of a spoon in olive oil and served with enough garlic to kill a vampire. The wine was a delightfully simple yet soft vino tinto (red) from the Alentejano region, which complemented my pork really well (also at the owner’s suggestion). Delicious cheesecake for dessert.
The meal was made all the more special upon discovering that it was Dom Luis’ wife of more than 50 years toiling away in the kitchen while he masterfully worked the room.
The best bit of all though (apart from the final bill) was chatting to the man himself after our meal. We covered several topics, but mostly the challenges of a 50 year marriage, and stories of all the people he’s thrown out of his restaurant for behaving like primadonnas. The world needs more Dom Luises.
Breakfast/Brunch
Not everywhere has its own Dom Luis, so unfortunately, I don’t have quite the same confidence when it comes to advising you on where to eat breakfast in Lisbon. A friend who lives in Lisbon however, had recommended Dear Breakfast for Saturday morning brunch, and I was pleasantly surprised.
On first glance, I was expecting this contemporary breakfast/brunch joint to be precisely the kind of place to charge scandalous hipster prices for satisfying dainty appetites for avocado toasts on sourdough (or insert other recent trend food here ____).
But, thankfully that was not the case at all. The chefs at Dear Breakfast in Chiado produce fantastic, colourful, good value food, which not only tastes great, but is presented remarkably well, so justifying the many food selfies I witnessed.
On our table there was a hearty portion of eggs benedict served with wonderfully spiced potatoes, and on the other plate maple cured bacon with pancakes, avocado and fried eggs. Exactly what we needed before a hard day of sightseeing.
FOOD IN LISBON: OUTRO
So there you have it, my overview of the food in Lisbon. Of course, what I’ve mentioned here covers only a fraction of Portuguese cuisine, but nonetheless I hope to have given you an idea of some the most iconic dishes to try while you’re in town, as well as one or two restaurants to consider.
Eat a few of these dishes and you’re definitely on the way to living like a local. And do check out at least one of those Lisbon food tours, not only for a great overview of Portuguese food culture, but also for the insider tips on the best places to eat for the rest of your stay. Bom apetite!
If you’re looking for a hotel to pair with all that rich food, then may I be so bold as to suggest my detailed look at Lisbon’s best boutique hotels…
Praying I get to Travel to Fatima and the Vatican before I leave this earth one day . Thanking you for making this guide for all pilgrims to see and travel too.
You’re very welcome! I hope you make it there one day too, Kate. I think you meant to post this comment on my Fatima page here: https://thetraveltortoise.com/portugal/visiting-fatima/